Tag: season

  • Extend Your Gardens Growing Season With A Simple Straw Bale Greenhouse

    Extend Your Gardens Growing Season With A Simple Straw Bale Greenhouse

    Having a garden opens a door to lots of opportunities, such as building an outdoor area for relaxation, setting up a cozy place for your pets and even creating your very own greenhouse. Let’s focus a bit on the latter. Your very own greenhouse can be the perfect way for you to start gardening and growing your own plants.

    Plus you can even spare a few bucks, as you no longer have to buy fruits and vegetables. But greenhouses can also be a bit expensive to build and maintain, right? Well this is not true for this next one, which is a straw bale greenhouse that is so easy and cheap to build that anyone can do it at home. It is the perfect way to extend the growing season of your garden, but also stay inside the budget.

    To learn more about straw bale greenhouses and how you can build a straw bale greenhouse, head to the link below …

    How to build a Straw Bale Greenhouse…HERE…

    Take your straw bale gardening to the next level – in more places, with new products, and even, sometimes, skipping the straw! More details HERE…

    This Article Was Originally Posted on goodshomedesign.com Read The Original Article here

  • Vegetables – Grow top-quality carrots

    Vegetables – Grow top-quality carrots

    Carrots are important root crops in commercial and home gardens for vegetable production. Here are some pointers for cultivating them.

    Carrots (Daucus carota) are members of the Apaceae family and are grown for the edible root, which can be eaten raw or cooked. They are rich in carotene (vitamin A). Carrots grow well in cool conditions, as long as there is enough moisture, and they are fairly resistant to cold and frost.

    SOIL

    Carrots need deep, well-drained sandy loam to sandy soil, and the texture is very important because it affects how smooth and well-shaped the roots will be. Avoid heavy, compact soil which will discourage growth. Soils high in fresh organic matter can result in hairy, forked and malformed roots, and stony soil can also produce poor root shapes. The optimum pH (H20) is between 6,0 and 6,5.

    TEMPERATURE

    Carrots are cool-weather plants, but growth slows down if the temperature drops below 10ºC.
    Although not usually sensitive to frost, severe frosty spells can damage the leaves. Roots can be damaged if the soil temperature drops below 0°C, especially if the plants were irrigated the preceding afternoon.
    The temperature and soil moisture influence the colour, shape and quality of carrots. Growth is optimal at 18 – 23°C, although some cultivars can withstand a great deal of heat. High temperatures (above 29°C) affect emergence and quality negatively, causing poor colour and thicker centres.

    CROP ROTATION

    Rotating crops helps to improve the quality of the soil and keep down soil-borne pests. Carrots make good crop rotation partners for cabbage, lettuce, pumpkin and tomatoes. If rotated with leguminous crops, such as peas and beans, they improve the soil’s nutrient levels.

    CULTIVARS

    Try these varieties:
    Kuroda, which offers an excellent yield and has a good shape. It’s 11 – 15cm long and has a thin kernel. Can be produced in warmer seasons.
    Cape Market is cylindrical, 12 – 17cm long and produced in warmer seasons.
    Scarlet Nantes, Flacoro, Fancy and Duke are good choices for autumn planting.

    PREPARING THE SOIL

    Loosen the soil thoroughly by ploughing (or using a fork, hand hoe or spade) to a depth of 300 – 400mm to allow for good root aeration, root penetration and drainage. Crush all clods with a rake or cultivator to obtain a deep, fine tilth. Remove stones because they can cause poorly shaped carrots. It would be even better to build and prepare a raised bed. Remove all weeds before sowing because carrot seedlings are very fine and cannot compete with weeds.

    SPACING

    Allow 25 – 35cm between rows. Thin out at one to two weeks after emergence, when the carrot seedlings are about 4cm high, and again one to two weeks later. This should result in a spacing of 4 – 5cm within the row (80 – 120 roots/m²). Do not thin out later than four weeks after emergence. If the crop is not thinned out, the carrots will be small and malformed. Thinning should take place in the afternoon, and when soil is moist.

    APPLYING FERTILISER

    Broadcast about 1 000kg/ha (100g/m2) of a fertiliser mixture such as 2:3:4 (30)+Zn or 1 100kg/ha (110g/m2) of 2:3:2 (22)+Zn just before planting and work it into the top 10cm of soil.

    Apply a top dressing of 10g LAN per metre of row at three weeks and again at six weeks after emergence. Sprinkle on both sides of the row, 2 – 10cm from the plants (do not sprinkle on the plants). It would be a good idea to remove all the weeds before applying LAN in order to avoid their competing with the carrots for fertiliser. Work into the top 2cm of the soil, using a flat-tined fork. Water well. In areas known to have a boron deficiency, apply 10 – 20kg/ha borax after planting.
    Do not use manure and compost for carrots, because they can cause malformation of the roots and decrease the marketable yield. If manure needs to be dug in, do so with the crop preceding carrots (see crop rotation).

    HOW TO SOW

    Rake the soil surface to a fine-tilth seedbed before sowing the small carrot seeds directly in the soil – carrots cannot be transplanted.

    Put the seeds in the palm of one hand, take a substantial pinch with the fingers of the other hand and rub between finger and thumb as you move your hand forwards and backwards along shallow (1,5cm deep) furrows, until the desired sowing rate is achieved. Another method is to mix one teaspoon of seed with 10 teaspoons of sand and then sow it. Seeding requires some experience and practice.

    After sowing, cover seed with fine soil to ensure better germination. In the warmer months, mulch the rows with dry grass to keep the soil cool and moist, as this will assist germination. Remove the mulch after the seedlings have emerged. (If it is kept on too long, the seedlings will become leggy and the sun will burn them easily.) Emergence may take 7 – 14 days depending on the cultivar, the weather, soil type and season important You will need 3 – 4kg seed. For smaller plots, allow 1g (1 teaspoon) per 2m of row.

    IRRIGATION

    Keep the soil moist after sowing the seeds to ensure good germination. Water carrots regularly throughout the growing season, but take care not to water too much. As a general rule, carrots need about 30mm of water per week. Water every five days if the weather is warm and dry.

    MANAGING THE CROP

    Start off with a weed-free plot so that the carrots do not have to compete with them for nutrients and water. Then weed carrots regularly to keep them free of weeds. If you see any weeds appear, remove them immediately. Being weed-free has a substantial effect on the yield – and your profits. Be particularly careful to remove perennial weeds because they can grow between the roots and will result in poor-quality carrots.

    HARVESTING

    Carrots grow for 10 – 12 weeks from emergence to harvesting, depending on the cultivar and the temperature. In small gardens, harvest them as soon as they reach a diameter of 20mm but are still young and tender. Make sure the soil is wet when you harvest carrots, to make them easier to remove, either pulling out by hand or first loosening them carefully with a fork (start 15cm away from the base of the plants) and then pulling them out.

    Harvest carrots when they are fully mature as this increases their shelf-life. Do not harvest early in the morning if the soil is cold, as this may cause the roots to crack horizontally. Do not leave carrots in the sun after harvesting – take them to a shady place as soon as possible.

    STORAGE

    Most horticultural crops are perishable and can only be stored for a few days. It is best to harvest carrots as needed for consumption or selling. Remove the leaves before storing, to extend shelf life.

    Fresh carrots, harvested when mature, will keep for up to five days at room temperature (20°C), and for 7 – 21 days in a refrigerator.

    WHEN TO SOW

    The following sowing times are recommended for the different countries.

    South Africa

    Highveld: August to mid-March.
    Middleveld (temperate climate zones): August to mid-April. In very warm areas, August to September and February to March.
    Limpopo and Lowveld: February to April and July to August.
    Free State and Northern Cape: August to October and end of January to March.
    Kwazulu-Natal (midlands and coastal region): August to April.
    Eastern Cape: July to April, but NOT in mid-summer in very warm areas. In very cold areas, August to April.
    Western Cape: August to end of March.

    Zambia

    Eastern province, and Sesheke and Shangombo districts: March to July.
    Northern, Luapula, Copperbelt, Northwestern, and parts of Central Provinces:  March to July.
    Sandveld plateau of Central, Eastern, Lusaka and Southern provinces: March to July.

    Zimbabwe

    Mashonaland East, Central and West: February to September.
    Mashonaland west(Kadoma) and Midlands(Kwekwe, Gweru, Gokwe): February to September
    Masvingo: February to September

    Malawi

    Whole country: whole year

    Botswana

    Southern region: February to Septmenber
    Gabarone regione: March to September
    Central region: March to August
    North east region: March to August
    Ngamiland region: April to Augist

    Disease control recommendations

    • Rotate crops.
    • Plant in well-drained soil.
    • Water early so that leaves can dry before nightfall.
    • Do not over-irrigate.
    • Burn diseased plants.
    • Fertilise plants well.
    • Control weeds in and around fields.
    • Remove all plant residues from the field after harvesting.

    REMEMBER: There are no registered disease-control chemicals for carrots.

    On – 17 Aug, 2017 By Digital team

  • How to Prevent Late Blight in Your Garden

    How to Prevent Late Blight in Your Garden

    How to Prevent Late Blight in Your Garden

    by | Gardening |

    3 years ago I had big plans. I spent hours planting over 300 tomato seeds. I watered, I turned, I transplanted. I spent a week digging 300 holes and putting them into the ground.

    I spent even more hours pinching off suckers and winding twine around the plants to tie them to their stakes. They were growing, heavy with green fruits and so close to turning red.

    Aren’t they beautiful?

    Late blight can be devastating to the home gardener. Learn how to prevent late blight organically and save your crops before it hits!

    That’s when I found it. It started as black spots on the leaves and fuzzy white growth on the underside. We’d fought bacterial spot before. Early blight even. But this was different. I walked the garden and found more plants along the row- with blackened stems and even some of the fruits had a bruised look about it.

    I knew what it was, but I snapped some pictures and sent them to my husband and sat down to Google. And my heart sank.

    Late Blight.

    I was devastated. We dug up all the plants we could find with signs. We started spraying the remaining tomatoes with an organic copper fungicide. But one by one my plants fell. Over the course of a month every. single. plant. was infected. We were lucky to get a few early tomatoes first, but all hopes of canned sauce were gone.

    I wouldn’t wish that on any gardener! So what can you do to prevent late blight from destroying your garden? First let’s talk about what it is and how to spot it.

    Signs of Late Blight

    Late blight is not like other diseases that strike your garden. Most will cause a reduction of harvest, but not affect the entire crop. Late Blight, however, will take down the entire plant- and it is highly contagious and spreads easy. This means one plant will most likely turn to 2, which turns to 3, and so on and so on.

    Technically speaking, Late blight is a fungus, Phytophthora infestans, to be exact. It spreads easily on the wind through spores and can travel quite a ways to settle on your plants. It affects both tomatoes and potates (Irish potato famine!). So be on the lookout on both crops.

    Plants should be destroyed to that no infected plant matter remains in your garden, on your soil, or in your compost heap. We bagged ours up in trash bags. The good news is that late blight won’t live in your soil or on your tomato cages…but make sure you get all roots, stems, leaves, and potatoes out of the ground.

    • Cooler, wetter weather will spread the disease quickly. It provides optimum conditions for blight to spread.
    • The leaves are the first infected- usually lower on the plants. You will see blackened areas over the leaves. One of the easily identifiable signs is the white, fuzzy, fungal growth on the underside of these leaves.
    • Stems will also start to blacked in random spots- usually at a joint.
    • Fruits are usually the last to show signs- green fruits will get a browning tinge in areas and turn completely brown/black as it progresses.

    Late blight can be devastating to the home gardener. Learn how to prevent late blight organically and save your crops before it hits!

    How to Prevent Late Blight in Your Garden

    That’s the way it is with most things, right? It is better to prevent late blight than to try and treat and save an infected area. So how can you prevent late blight?

    Plant blight-resistant varieties. There are a few heirloom tomatoes that seem to have some natural resistance as well as some hybrids that can fight late blight.

    Pay attention to proper spacing. I think one of the reasons my plants were so hard it was that I planted them too close together in order to fit them all in, that put together with a wet and cool June, gave me the perfect recipe for blight. Proper spacing will allow your tomatoes to dry faster and allow more air circulation.

    Water the roots, not the leaves. This should be a rule for all plants. Wet conditions can breed a lot of disease- so keep the water on the ground and not on the leaves.

    Learn how to build a PVC Drip Irrigation System for your garden with Online Gardening School- this system is the perfect way to water tomatoes and will keep your plants healthier! For a limited time The Free Range Life Readers can get this course for 50% off! Click here to get started!

    Practice good crop rotation so that your tomatoes and potatoes are not planted in the same soil year after year. This will reduce the risk of plant matter accidentally being left from previous years- which may have spores still living on them.

    Solarize your soil prior to planting.

    Use organic sprays BEFORE you see signs of blight. Serenade is a biological fungicide that can help prevent late blight- along with organic copper fungicide. Spray to prevent, not treat.

    What to do if Late Blight Strikes

    In all my years gardening in East Tennessee, I never saw late blight. Now, living in Western North Carolina, it seems that it’s not a matter of if, but when we will see late blight. We live in an area that has a lot of commercial tomato farms- we live less than a mile from about 3 fields! So spores are on the wind- and without a hot dry summer- we fight the battle every year.
    If you find yourself with infected plants, here’s what you should do.

    • Pull up infected plants immediately. The entire plant. Bag it up and set it out for the trash pick up.
    • If you aren’t already spray products like Serenade or an organic copper fungicide on the remaining plants.
    • Contact your local extension agent to report the infection. Remember late blight is extremely contagious and if you allow it to go rampant in your garden you are risking infecting your neighbor’s gardens as well.
    • Don’t give up. Believe me, I know how devastating it is to loose you garden to a disease like this. Don’t give up. Rebound quickly and plant something in it’s place. A nice fall crop of brassicas or greens, beans, or other veggies that are good for the season.
    • Plan ahead for next year. Prepare your soil ahead of time and plant a good variety of plants- including early varieties that you can harvest before any chance of late blight occurs.

    The year we pulled up all of our plants, we also brought in a few hundred pounds of green tomatoes to attempt to ripen in our basement. Most of them succumbed to late blight and rotted before they ripened. And even though it was devastating, we continue to plan tomatoes every year- we just have to be extra careful and use as many prevention techniques as possible. Have you dealt with late blight in your garden? Let me know your experience with it in the comments!

    http://thefreerangelife.com/prevent-late-blight/

    On – 27 Feb, 2017 By Sarah

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