Tag: produce

  • Sweet corn is an easy crop for home gardens. Here’s how to plant it

    Sweet corn is an easy crop for home gardens. Here’s how to plant it

    One of life’s great treats is biting into corn that was cooked just minutes after it was harvested from your home garden. If you’ve never had the experience of eating fresh sweet corn right out of your yard, now is the time to plant it.  Sweet corn is not one of the more commonly planted home garden vegetables, and there are reasons for this.

    Although it rarely grows as high as an elephant’s eye, corn plants are fairly large, and they occupy a substantial amount of space in the garden. As a result, many vegetable gardeners don’t plant corn, especially if they have a small garden.

    Each plant produces about two ears of corn, so overall production in the space is not as high as it would be for other popular vegetables, such as tomatoes, squash, snap beans or trellised cucumbers. But if you have the space, growing sweet corn is not that much of a challenge, and the results are delicious.

    Types to grow

    Many early summer vegetables produce over a period of weeks or even months. Corn, on the other hand, is harvested over a relatively short period of time as all of the ears ripen at about the same time. You can get around this by planting cultivars that ripen at different times.

    Recommended sweet corn cultivars grouped by how long to harvest include:

    Early-maturing: Seneca Horizon

    Mid-season: Bonanza, Merit and Funks Sweet G90 (bi-color)

    Late-maturing: Silver Queen (white), NK199, Iochief (AAS), Gold Queen and Golden Cross Bantam.

    Or, you can plant the same cultivar in succession. Plant seeds in one area and then plant seeds in another area two or three weeks later.

     

    There also are extra sweet corn cultivars. They contain more sugar than normal sweet corn and are able to hold their sugar levels longer after harvest. Based on the genetics involved, they are grouped into two categories: supersweet and sugary enhanced. Recommended supersweet types (which must be isolated from cross pollination with ordinary sweet corn or sugary enhanced) include How Sweet It Is (AAS), Honey-N-Pearl (AAS), XTender 378, 372, 270 BC, Passion, Accelerator, Summer Sweet #8101W, Summer Sweet #7210Y, #8102 BC, Pegasus and Ice Queen.

    Recommended sugary enhanced types include Honey Select (AAS), Avalon, Miracle, Argent, Incredible, Bodacious, Precious Gem BC, Ambrosia BC, Sweet Chorus BC, Temptation BC, White Out, Lancelot BC, Silver King and Sweet Ice. (AAS is All-America Selection Winner.)

    Planting

    Planting corn early — now through mid-April — reduces problems with corn earworms, the leading insect pest of corn in the home garden. When planted this month, corn typically does not require any pesticide sprays.

    Although sweet corn does require room, in a 4-by-8-foot raised bed you can grow two rows of corn with the plants in each row spaced 10 inches apart. That’s 20 plants. If they each produce two ears, you have a generous harvest of 40 ears of corn.

     

    Prepare the ground for planting by first removing any weeds or unwanted vegetation. Turn the soil to a depth of a shovel blade (about 8 inches), apply a 2-3 inch layer of compost or composted manure and a general-purpose fertilizer following package directions, and thoroughly mix everything together.

    When planting sweet corn, plant two or three seeds every 10 inches in the row, burying them about one-half to 1 inch deep, and water in thoroughly. After the seeds germinate and the plants are 3 to 4 inches tall, thin to one plant per 10 inches.

    Sidedress sweet corn plants with a nitrogen containing fertilizer (ammonium nitrate, calcium nitrate, ammonium sulfate) when the plants are about 16 inches high and again when the plants are about 36 inches high. Corn benefits from generous fertilization.

    Pollination issues

    Many of the commonly grown vegetables are self-pollinating (tomatoes) or rely on insects for crosspollination (cucumbers), but corn is wind pollinated. The male flowers that shed the pollen are located at the top of the plant in the tassel. The female flowers are arranged in rows along the cob enclosed by the shucks. A silk is connected to each of the female flowers, and the other ends of the silks hang outside the shuck. At least one pollen grain must land on each silk to pollinate a female flower, which produces one kernel of corn.

     

    Each kernel of corn is the result of a separate act of pollination. So, it is important to plant corn properly to make sure the wind deposits the pollen on the silks.

    For that reason, we plant sweet corn in a block planting of several short rows side by side rather than one or two long rows. By planting in blocks, you allow the pollen to move from one plant to another more surely no matter which way the wind is blowing. Ears that are poorly filled with kernels of corn are generally the result of poor pollination.

    Some gardeners take this farther and do hand pollination. This only is practical in the small plantings done in backyard gardens. When the tassels at the top of the plants begin to shed the yellow, powdery pollen, tassels are cut and shaken over the silks.

    Harvest and use

    The best time to harvest sweet corn is in the early morning while the temperature is low. To determine when regular sweet corn is ready to harvest, first check the silks to see if they have begun to dry and turn brown. Then feel the ear. It should feel firm and full.

    Peel back a shuck enough to puncture a few kernels on the ears with your thumbnail. When sweet corn is at its highest quality, the juice from the kernels will be milky white and runny. It is not ready when the juice is clear and watery, and corn is over mature and starchy when the juice inside the kernels is thick and dough-like.

     

    Corn usually matures 18 to 24 days after the tassels appear or 15-20 days after the first silks appear. Watch the corn closely because the quality changes fast with the normal sweet varieties. Refrigerate or cook immediately after harvesting.

    Dan Gill is a horticulturist with the LSU AgCenter.

    http://www.nola.com/homegarden/index.ssf/2017/03/sweet_corn_is_an_easy_crop_for.html

    On – 25 Mar, 2017 By Dan Gill

  • Yard and Garden: Container Gardening | Iowa State University Extension and Outreach

    Yard and Garden: Container Gardening | Iowa State University Extension and Outreach

    AMES, Iowa – A traditional home garden is a popular way to grow vegetables, but it’s far from the only way. Growing vegetable plants in containers can also produce a bountiful crop, although care must be taken to ensure meaningful growth.

    ISU Extension and Outreach horticulturists can help answer your questions about how to best handle container growing of vegetables. To have additional questions answered, contact the ISU Hortline at 515-294-3108 or [email protected].

    I would like to grow vegetables in containers. Can I use garden soil or should I purchase a commercial potting mix?

    Plants grown in containers require a well-drained growing medium. Garden soil alone is not a good growing medium. Garden soil compacts when placed in a container, resulting in poor water drainage and aeration. Soil also pulls away from the inside of the container when it dries, making it difficult to properly water plants. A homemade potting mix can be prepared using equal amounts (volumes) of garden soil, sphagnum peat moss, and perlite.

    A commercial potting mix is often the best choice when gardening in containers. The quality of commercial potting mixes varies considerably. Poor quality potting mixes are often inexpensive, black, heavy, and don’t drain well. High quality commercial potting mixes are lightweight, well-drained, free of plant disease organisms and weed seeds, retain moisture and nutrients well, and don’t readily compact. Commercial potting mixes can be purchased at garden centers and many other retailers.

    What type of container can be used to grow vegetables?

    Containers may be plastic, clay, ceramic or wood. The container must be able hold an adequate amount of potting soil and have drainage holes in the bottom. Drill drainage holes in plastic and wooden containers, if no drainage holes are provided.

    In regards to size, several leaf lettuce or spinach plants can be grown in a one gallon container. A single pepper or eggplant can be grown in a two gallon container, while a four gallon container would be necessary for a single tomato plant.

    Which tomato varieties are best suited to containers?

    Determinate tomato cultivars are best suited to growing in containers. Determinate tomatoes are small, compact plants. They grow to a certain height, then flower and set all their fruit within a short period of time. Indeterminate tomatoes are large, sprawling plants which get too large for most containers.

    Suggested tomato cultivars for containers include ‘Bush Early Girl,’ ‘Better Bush,’ ‘Celebrity,’ ‘Patio Hybrid,’ ‘Patio  Princess,’ Sweet ‘n Neat Scarlet’ (cherry), and ‘Sweet Zen’ (grape).

    Can vine crops be grown in containers?

    Most cucumbers, melons, and squashes are not well suited to containers as they are large, sprawling plants. However, bush-type cucumbers and summer squash can be grown in containers. Bush-type cucumber cultivars suitable for containers include ‘Spacemaster,’ ‘Salad Bush,’ ‘Pickle Bush,’ and ‘Patio Snacker.’  Bush-type summer squash, such as ‘Zucchini Elite,’ ‘Gold Rush,’ ‘Sunburst,’ and ‘Patio Star,’ can also be grown in containers.

     

    https://www.extension.iastate.edu/article/yard-and-garden-container-gardening

    On – 20 Apr, 2017 By Richard Jauron

  • How Soil Type Affects Land Values

    How Soil Type Affects Land Values

    A farm’s greatest asset is its land. If you’re considering buying land with an ag land loan, looking into the land’s soil type is an important step in determining the worth of the property. It’s also an indicator of how much work the soil will need in order to provide a nutrient-rich environment for crops.

    Soil classification is based on the texture and size of the particles in the soil, as well as on the mineral and nutrient content. The six most common soil types are loamy, sandy, peaty, silty, chalky, and clay. Each of these base soil types become naturally combined in varying ratios to produce entirely new and unique soils in each state.

    Every part of the country has one, or a mixture, of the six main soil types. And just like each state has an official flower or bird, they also designate a state soil. Florida’s official soil is called “Myakka.” It originates from marine deposits and is a key component of Floridian flatwoods.

    There are a variety of tools for assessing a farmland’s soil type. Chuck Cruse, AgAmerica’s Regional Account Manager for Florida, highly recommends heading to the USDA’s Natural Resources and Conservation Services (NRCS) web page. This tool allows users to create a map of their land or land that they are considering for purchase. The process takes the user through four basic steps: (1. Define your land area of interest; (2. Gain detailed descriptions of the soils in that area; (3. Access and save soil data and crop suitability data with the Soil Data Explorer; and (4. Order a free instant printable report, which creates a complete picture of the quality of a specified piece of land, including yield potential. The NCRS database currently contains data for 95% of the nation’s counties and anticipates having 100% in the near future.

    Different crops prefer different soils, so determining the soil’s compatibility with certain crops is a key concern for the region’s ag Extension office. Extension agents are familiar with the area while possessing access to an array of useful data when it comes to soil quality and which land offers the best yield, and for which crops.

    The USDA also collects data on what’s known as “prime farmland designations,” which are based on physical and morphological (organic) characteristics such as the depth of the water table in relation to the root zone, potential moisture holding capacity, the degree of salinity, permeability, frequency of flooding, soil temperature, erosion potential, and soil acidity.

    Data about a farm’s soil type is used to help create the land appraisal. Appraisals are a common part of securing a land loan and are a complex equation involving a variety of factors with soil quality being only one of them.

    Land appraisers develop economic assessments of agricultural acreage using soil samples. To determine the property’s value, they’ll review past yield records, look at existing irrigation and/or potential for new irrigation, and examine border features to assess how these might impact soil productivity.

    While the southeastern region of the U.S. has a wide array of soil types, there is a very unique and valuable soil type found prominently in Florida — muck soil. Otherwise known as “black gold,” muck is a highly fertile soil that has amendments and nutritional value present without having to fertilize or irrigate heavily. The value of a parcel that contains muck soil fluctuates based on the depth of the muck, which can range from 12 inches to 30 feet deep in some areas. The deeper the muck, the more valuable the property is. However, there are only small areas of muck located in the state of Florida, the largest mass of it bedding in Palm Beach County around the bank of Lake Okeechobee.

    “Muck is where sugarcane is primarily grown,” Cruse says, “because it takes very a minimal amount of work to grow it. You can get three to four cuttings off one planting of sugarcane, depending on the variety. When the farmer rotates the cane with sweet corn or other vegetables, it helps recycle those amendments back into the soil naturally. Once they’re done growing the cover crop, they’ll go in and till that crop, putting the nutrients and supplements back into the soil that’s then used to grow another crop of cane that will last another three to four years.”

    Many farmers are finding innovative techniques to duplicate this scarce “black gold.” For instance, there are some sugarcane growers that are farming the cane on what is considered sand land. While the soil is entirely different than the muck, they’re bringing in mud and peat substitutes from the mills to replicate the nutrient-rich muck soil.

    “These folks have the opportunity to bring some, what they call, ‘mill mud’ back to their properties to put the amendments back into the sand soil,” Cruse explains. “This gives them the properties and nutritional products that mimic the muck soil and grow better crops, even though they don’t have any depth of muck on the sand land. These farmers are putting anywhere from 12 to 24 inches of mill mud on top of the sand to help get the crop’s roots to be hardier, stronger, and to produce a better crop.”

    http://www.growingproduce.com/vegetables/how-soil-type-affects-land-values/

    On – 17 Nov, 2016 By Phoebe Moll

  • How Soil Type Affects Land Values

    How Soil Type Affects Land Values

    A farm’s greatest asset is its land. If you’re considering buying land with an ag land loan, looking into the land’s soil type is an important step in determining the worth of the property. It’s also an indicator of how much work the soil will need in order to provide a nutrient-rich environment for crops.

    Soil classification is based on the texture and size of the particles in the soil, as well as on the mineral and nutrient content. The six most common soil types are loamy, sandy, peaty, silty, chalky, and clay. Each of these base soil types become naturally combined in varying ratios to produce entirely new and unique soils in each state.

    Every part of the country has one, or a mixture, of the six main soil types. And just like each state has an official flower or bird, they also designate a state soil. Florida’s official soil is called “Myakka.” It originates from marine deposits and is a key component of Floridian flatwoods.

    There are a variety of tools for assessing a farmland’s soil type. Chuck Cruse, AgAmerica’s Regional Account Manager for Florida, highly recommends heading to the USDA’s Natural Resources and Conservation Services (NRCS) web page. This tool allows users to create a map of their land or land that they are considering for purchase. The process takes the user through four basic steps: (1. Define your land area of interest; (2. Gain detailed descriptions of the soils in that area; (3. Access and save soil data and crop suitability data with the Soil Data Explorer; and (4. Order a free instant printable report, which creates a complete picture of the quality of a specified piece of land, including yield potential. The NCRS database currently contains data for 95% of the nation’s counties and anticipates having 100% in the near future.

    Different crops prefer different soils, so determining the soil’s compatibility with certain crops is a key concern for the region’s ag Extension office. Extension agents are familiar with the area while possessing access to an array of useful data when it comes to soil quality and which land offers the best yield, and for which crops.

    The USDA also collects data on what’s known as “prime farmland designations,” which are based on physical and morphological (organic) characteristics such as the depth of the water table in relation to the root zone, potential moisture holding capacity, the degree of salinity, permeability, frequency of flooding, soil temperature, erosion potential, and soil acidity.

    Data about a farm’s soil type is used to help create the land appraisal. Appraisals are a common part of securing a land loan and are a complex equation involving a variety of factors with soil quality being only one of them.

    Land appraisers develop economic assessments of agricultural acreage using soil samples. To determine the property’s value, they’ll review past yield records, look at existing irrigation and/or potential for new irrigation, and examine border features to assess how these might impact soil productivity.

    While the southeastern region of the U.S. has a wide array of soil types, there is a very unique and valuable soil type found prominently in Florida — muck soil. Otherwise known as “black gold,” muck is a highly fertile soil that has amendments and nutritional value present without having to fertilize or irrigate heavily. The value of a parcel that contains muck soil fluctuates based on the depth of the muck, which can range from 12 inches to 30 feet deep in some areas. The deeper the muck, the more valuable the property is. However, there are only small areas of muck located in the state of Florida, the largest mass of it bedding in Palm Beach County around the bank of Lake Okeechobee.

    “Muck is where sugarcane is primarily grown,” Cruse says, “because it takes very a minimal amount of work to grow it. You can get three to four cuttings off one planting of sugarcane, depending on the variety. When the farmer rotates the cane with sweet corn or other vegetables, it helps recycle those amendments back into the soil naturally. Once they’re done growing the cover crop, they’ll go in and till that crop, putting the nutrients and supplements back into the soil that’s then used to grow another crop of cane that will last another three to four years.”

    Many farmers are finding innovative techniques to duplicate this scarce “black gold.” For instance, there are some sugarcane growers that are farming the cane on what is considered sand land. While the soil is entirely different than the muck, they’re bringing in mud and peat substitutes from the mills to replicate the nutrient-rich muck soil.

    “These folks have the opportunity to bring some, what they call, ‘mill mud’ back to their properties to put the amendments back into the sand soil,” Cruse explains. “This gives them the properties and nutritional products that mimic the muck soil and grow better crops, even though they don’t have any depth of muck on the sand land. These farmers are putting anywhere from 12 to 24 inches of mill mud on top of the sand to help get the crop’s roots to be hardier, stronger, and to produce a better crop.”

    http://www.growingproduce.com/vegetables/how-soil-type-affects-land-values/

    On – 17 Nov, 2016 By Phoebe Moll

  • What to consider when building an off-grid cottage or cabin

    What to consider when building an off-grid cottage or cabin

    If you’re thinking of purchasing a second home, whether it be a cottage, cabin, lake house, camp or other, you may be considering going totally off-grid. It’s an exciting idea for homeowners who want to actively reduce their carbon footprint, and get closer to nature.

    When considering buying an off-grid property, there are many things to ponder. Often an off-grid piece of land will be sold at a much lower price than a property which is already connected to the local power authority. Connecting a property to the local power authority will most likely run you around $20K to $30K or more, depending on the location of the property, so take this into consideration when understanding the economics of your investment. It’s highly possible that the capital costs of a full solar panel installation will cost you less than purchasing a home which is already serviced by an electrical utility.

    Alternative solar

    Alternative, clean energy options for the home are booming. Homeowners are increasingly presented affordable and alternative energy options to choose from. Traditional solar panels are a great option if you have a piece of land or roof that gets sufficient sun, however if budget permitting, why not explore new technologies such as the Tesla Solar Roof. Elon Musks’ revolutionary Solar Roof is purported to last twice as long as a traditional roof (and maybe much longer) and it will both reduce if not totally eliminate electricity costs and, paired with a Tesla Powerpack battery, provide you with backup energy in the case of blackouts.

    Not only is Musk’s roof revolutionary from a technology standpoint, it’s also beautiful. Sources say the Tesla roof will apparently last at least as long as your mortgage, thus alleviating the need to invest in a new roof over the lifetime of your dwelling. In fact, the solar roof is touted to appreciate in value, unlike traditional roofs. Definitely worth investigating the long-term ROI on this product.

    Wind and hydro power

    Wind and hydro power are also clean, alternative sources of energy that can be explored if you choose to live off-grid. Hydro power will obviously require access to water, and the right technological solutions to support your power needs. If you are considering a wind powered solution, make sure you research the average wind speed ranges on your property. These can often vary significantly from regional averages depending on local topography. You can then estimate how much electricity a given system will produce by knowing your average wind speeds.

    Of course, there are pluses and minuses to going with wind energy, the most obvious of which is the need for breeze: if the wind doesn’t blow, the turbine stays still and the electricity isn’t generated. Wind turbines also have moving parts, which means regular maintenance, and the possibility of failure.

    Many traditional off-grid dwellers use gas-powered generators, either as a backup to an alternative system, or as the main system. Generators are noisy, smelly, not eco-friendly and require re-fueling, so keep this in mind when deciding which system to go with. If you rent out your cottage, you may want to consider going with a system that does not require the user to interact with a gas-powered system.

    Best of luck with your project!

    http://blog.homestars.com/archives/off-grid-cottage-or-cabin/

    On – 15 May, 2017 By Leslie Andrachuk

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