Category: [05-Animals]

Information and tools for all homestead and farm animals

  • How to Build Your Own Small Animal Trap

    How to Build Your Own Small Animal Trap

    How to Build Your Own Small Animal Trap

    If you need to remove a wild animal from your yard and don’t wish to kill it you can build your own small animal trap and relocate the animal somewhere more appropriate. Depending on where you live, having wild animals coming around your yard is probably normal. However, some of these animals can be a bit destructive and cause a wide range of property damage. Having a way to humanely remove the nuisance animal can be difficult unless you already have a trap of some sort. This DIY project was designed to help introduce the reader to way to build simple, small animal traps.

    How to Build Your Own Small Animal Trap

    This article is from Sensible Survival. This Do It Yourself project is really well done and all of the information is presented in a way that makes it very easy to read and understand. All of the stuff that is needed to get started can easily be gotten at most any supply or hardware store. Discover how truly easy it is to build your own humane, small animal trap. The project includes a complete listing of all of the materials, supplies and tools needed. It also includes a complete, easy to follow step by step instruction guide with a cutlist for the lumber. You will also find several full color pictures that helps to provide a nice visual representation of the project.

     

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    https://sensiblesurvival.org/2017/01/09/build-a-live-trap/ 

    https://thehomesteadsurvival.com/build-small-animal-trap/

    On – 07 Feb, 2017 By

  • How to Build Your Own Small Animal Trap

    How to Build Your Own Small Animal Trap

    How to Build Your Own Small Animal Trap

    If you need to remove a wild animal from your yard and don’t wish to kill it you can build your own small animal trap and relocate the animal somewhere more appropriate. Depending on where you live, having wild animals coming around your yard is probably normal. However, some of these animals can be a bit destructive and cause a wide range of property damage. Having a way to humanely remove the nuisance animal can be difficult unless you already have a trap of some sort. This DIY project was designed to help introduce the reader to way to build simple, small animal traps.

    How to Build Your Own Small Animal Trap

    This article is from Sensible Survival. This Do It Yourself project is really well done and all of the information is presented in a way that makes it very easy to read and understand. All of the stuff that is needed to get started can easily be gotten at most any supply or hardware store. Discover how truly easy it is to build your own humane, small animal trap. The project includes a complete listing of all of the materials, supplies and tools needed. It also includes a complete, easy to follow step by step instruction guide with a cutlist for the lumber. You will also find several full color pictures that helps to provide a nice visual representation of the project.

     

    Make sure you like The Homestead Survival on Facebook, Shop on AMAZON with Us and explore our PINTEREST BOARDS

    Click here to read about:

    https://sensiblesurvival.org/2017/01/09/build-a-live-trap/ 

    https://thehomesteadsurvival.com/build-small-animal-trap/

    On – 07 Feb, 2017 By

  • The Small-Scale Poultry Flock: An All-Natural Approach to Raising Chickens and Other Fowl for Home and Market Growers

    The Small-Scale Poultry Flock: An All-Natural Approach to Raising Chickens and Other Fowl for Home and Market Growers

    This entry is in the series Best Homestead Animal Books

    The most comprehensive guide to date on raising all-natural poultry for the small-scale farmer, homesteader, and professional grower. The Small-Scale Poultry Flock offers a practical and integrative model for working with chickens and other domestic fowl, based entirely on natural systems. Readers will find information on growing (and sourcing) feed on a small scale, brooding…;



    Chelsea Green PublishingPrice: $39.95 $29.73 Free Shipping



    The most comprehensive guide to date on raising all-natural poultry for the small-scale farmer, homesteader, and professional grower. The Small-Scale Poultry Flock offers a practical and integrative model for working with chickens and other domestic fowl, based entirely on natural systems.

    Readers will find information on growing (and sourcing) feed on a small scale, brooding (and breeding) at home, and using poultry as insect and weed managers in the garden and orchard. Ussery’s model presents an entirely sustainable system that can be adapted and utilized in a variety of scales, and will prove invaluable for beginner homesteaders, growers looking to incorporate poultry into their farm, or poultry farmers seeking to close their loop. Ussery offers extensive information on:

    • The definition of an integrated poultry flock (imitation of natural systems, integrating patterns, and closing the circle)
    • Everything you need to know about your basic chicken (including distinctive points about anatomy and behavior that are critical to management)
    • Extended information on poultry health and holistic health care, with a focus on prevention

    • Planning your flock (flock size, choosing breeds, fowl useful for egg vs. meat production, sourcing stock)
    • How to breed and brood the flock (including breeding for genetic conservation), including the most complete guide to working with broody hens available anywhere
    • Making and mixing your own feed (with tips on equipment, storage, basic ingredients, technique, grinding and mixing)
    • Providing more of the flock’s feed from sources grown or self-foraged on the homestead or farm, including production of live protein feeds using earthworms and soldier grubs
    • Using poultry to increase soil fertility, control crop damaging insects, and to make compost-including systems for pasturing and for tillage of cover crops and weeds
    • Recipes for great egg and poultry dishes (including Ussery’s famous chicken stock!)
    • And one of the best step-by-step poultry butchering guides available, complete with extensive illustrative photos.

    No other book on raising poultry takes an entirely whole-systems approach, or discusses producing homegrown feed and breeding in such detail. This is a truly invaluable guide that will lead farmers and homesteaders into a new world of self-reliance and enjoyment.



    Full Customer Reviews:


  • Grow Food for your Meat Rabbits

    Grow Food for your Meat Rabbits

    Grow Food for your Meat Rabbits

    These days people are raising a number of livestock animals to provide meat for their family. One of those small animals that seems to be growing in popularity is the rabbit. While most of their diet consists nutrient dense pellets, they should be given a variety of fresh vegetables. This article was designed to introduce the readers to valuable information on planting and growing a garden full of the vegetables that are especially beneficial to rabbits.

    Grow Food for your Meat Rabbits

    The article is from Imperfectly Happy Homesteading. The author was looking to share their experience of raising rabbits as livestock in order to help others to do the same. All of the information that is included in the article was added in order to make it easy more beneficial for the reader.

    Benefits of reading the Grow Food for your Meat Rabbits

    Learn several valuable tips on how to select which types of vegetables for feeding rabbits.
    The article describes in detail what variety of vegetables that are designed provide rabbits that right amount of nutrients.

    The information is presented in a way that makes it really easy to read and to understand.

    Click here to read about:

    http://imperfectlyhappy.com/growing-a-rabbit-garden/ 

  • Grow Food for your Meat Rabbits

    Grow Food for your Meat Rabbits

    Grow Food for your Meat Rabbits

    These days people are raising a number of livestock animals to provide meat for their family. One of those small animals that seems to be growing in popularity is the rabbit. While most of their diet consists nutrient dense pellets, they should be given a variety of fresh vegetables. This article was designed to introduce the readers to valuable information on planting and growing a garden full of the vegetables that are especially beneficial to rabbits.

    Grow Food for your Meat Rabbits

    The article is from Imperfectly Happy Homesteading. The author was looking to share their experience of raising rabbits as livestock in order to help others to do the same. All of the information that is included in the article was added in order to make it easy more beneficial for the reader.

    Benefits of reading the Grow Food for your Meat Rabbits

    Learn several valuable tips on how to select which types of vegetables for feeding rabbits.
    The article describes in detail what variety of vegetables that are designed provide rabbits that right amount of nutrients.

    The information is presented in a way that makes it really easy to read and to understand.

    Click here to read about:

    http://imperfectlyhappy.com/growing-a-rabbit-garden/ 

  • The Working Chicken: Learn everything you need to know to become a backyard egg and meat producer in 30 minutes or less!

    The Working Chicken: Learn everything you need to know to become a backyard egg and meat producer in 30 minutes or less!


    A short, sweet, and self-sufficient guide to keeping chickens as part of a rural or urban homestead. Learn everything you need to know to get started on your poultry adventure with these quick answers to your frequently asked questions. The Working Chicken begins by helping you choose the perfect flock for your family, then explains…;





    A short, sweet, and self-sufficient guide to keeping chickens as part of a rural or urban homestead.

    Learn everything you need to know to get started on your poultry adventure with these quick answers to your frequently asked questions. The Working Chicken begins by helping you choose the perfect flock for your family, then explains how to feed and house your new pets. Finally, the book’s permaculture twist ensures that your chickens will not only be happy and healthy, they’ll also keep your family healthy too.

    Now with a bonus picture book to inspire the next-generation of chicken lovers!



    Full Customer Reviews:


  • Keeping a Family Cow 101 – Reformation Acres

    Keeping a Family Cow 101 – Reformation Acres

    From costs, to how to pick the right cow, breeding, calving, milking, and more I’m going to walk you through the basics of keeping a family cow.

    When you begin to research the ins and outs of owning a family cow, there is a ton of information you will need to sift through and learn. Since you are going to want to give your new dairy gal the best life you can provide, that means understanding what part you will need to play in the relationship and what care she will require from you. You’ll also need to know things like how much acreage you will need, what the calving year looks like, how to safely handle the milk, and how much it’s going to cost to buy her in the first place and maintain her every year.

    From costs, to how to pick the right breed of cow, how to get her bred, what to do at calving time, how to milk her, and more I’m going to walk you through the basics of cow ownership.  That way you can get an idea of what it entails and whether it is a commitment you and your family willing to take on. I’m not going to lie to you, it’s a lot of work but for some of us it is totally worth every ounce of energy we give her!

    And if in the end, you still find yourself dreaming of the day you can bring your own dairy cow home and finally put that first glass of creamy cold raw milk to your lips then it is time for you to dive in deeper to find out more about the blessings, details, and challenges of cow ownership.

    Visit Homesteader’s of America to Learn about Family Milk Cow 101

    Check Out These Other Resources for Keeping a Family Cow

    From costs, to how to pick the right cow, breeding, calving, milking, and more I’m going to walk you through the basics of keeping a family cow.

     

    Comments

    http://www.reformationacres.com/2017/09/keeping-family-cow-101.html

    On – 05 Sep, 2017 By Quinn

  • First Aid Treatment For Your Farm Animal’s Eyes

    First Aid Treatment For Your Farm Animal’s Eyes

    First Aid Treatment For Your Farm Animal's Eyes

    Today’s curated article is very specific but important to learn if you have any animals. As anyone with eyeballs knows, eyes are very sensitive and can cause a lot of pain if you get something stuck in them. Worse, if a piece of contaminated dirt gets stuck under the eyelid, it can cause an infection and even blindness if left untreated.

    Since your animals spend most of their time outdoors, the chances of one of them getting something stuck in their eye at some point are very high, so you should keep an eye on them (see what I did there?) and be prepared to treat them when it happens. In this article, Janet from Timber Creek Farm shares her experience treating the eyes of a duck and a goat on her homestead.

    She writes, “We had two eye injuries with our farm animals within the same week recently. And, this was not the first time we have had to deal with something wrong with an eye, due to injury or infection. No matter how much you try to keep an area free from potentially dangerous spots, injuries can still occur. Fortunately, we have a farm first aid box ready to start treatment on any given day. We keep this well stocked for the minor accident, or injuries…”

    First Aid Treatment For Your Farm Animal’s Eyes

    http://homesteadsurvivalsite.com/first-aid-treatment-for-your-farm-animals-eyes/

    On – 07 Mar, 2017 By Heidi

  • First Aid Treatment For Your Farm Animal’s Eyes

    First Aid Treatment For Your Farm Animal’s Eyes

    First Aid Treatment For Your Farm Animal's Eyes

    Today’s curated article is very specific but important to learn if you have any animals. As anyone with eyeballs knows, eyes are very sensitive and can cause a lot of pain if you get something stuck in them. Worse, if a piece of contaminated dirt gets stuck under the eyelid, it can cause an infection and even blindness if left untreated.

    Since your animals spend most of their time outdoors, the chances of one of them getting something stuck in their eye at some point are very high, so you should keep an eye on them (see what I did there?) and be prepared to treat them when it happens. In this article, Janet from Timber Creek Farm shares her experience treating the eyes of a duck and a goat on her homestead.

    She writes, “We had two eye injuries with our farm animals within the same week recently. And, this was not the first time we have had to deal with something wrong with an eye, due to injury or infection. No matter how much you try to keep an area free from potentially dangerous spots, injuries can still occur. Fortunately, we have a farm first aid box ready to start treatment on any given day. We keep this well stocked for the minor accident, or injuries…”

    First Aid Treatment For Your Farm Animal’s Eyes

    http://homesteadsurvivalsite.com/first-aid-treatment-for-your-farm-animals-eyes/

    On – 07 Mar, 2017 By Heidi

  • Training Dogs Not To Kill Chickens – Homesteading and Livestockk – MOTHER EARTH NEWS

    Training Dogs Not To Kill Chickens – Homesteading and Livestockk – MOTHER EARTH NEWS

    “ ‘Til it falls off,” he dryly answered.

    “What?” I repeated, more surprisedly than when I first posed the question. “You can’t do that — it’s cruel.”

    “It works,” replied he. “What else you gonna do?”

    So I did it. I employed no growling or angry words. I just said “Sara, now you have a new necklace,” and tied her most recent kill to her collar with a piece of bailing twine. She was immediately unhappy with this adornment, and for the next several days she had a new skulk about her. And a new smell. “Pew,” I’d remark to the poor creature, who could not escape the yet poorer creature draped about her neck. She looked guilty, or mortified.

    But she stopped killing chickens. After a few days the rotted bird rotted off, and so did Sara’s hitherto incurable habit. She never attacked another chicken. In fact, she’d skulk away from them, and they were free to range. She seemed to apprehend that one of them might grab her around the neck, and not let go for dear life.

    Sadly, Sara later displayed a comparable inclination toward sheep. Though she didn’t kill any, she mauled a few. Rather weightier than chickens, and still alive, I decided against strapping a sheep to the dog’s neck. We found another home for Sara, and bought a Border Collie. I never had to tie any animals around the Border Collie’s neck.

    My wife says I shouldn’t post this article because of animal cruelty concerns. I leave that judgment to my readers — perhaps it would be cruel to the remaining chickens not to tie their erstwhile comrade to the attacker’s collar….

     Photo by Emily Klar

    All MOTHER EARTH NEWS community bloggers have agreed to follow our Blogging Guidelines, and they are responsible for the accuracy of their posts. To learn more about the author of this post, click on their byline link at the top of the page.

    https://www.motherearthnews.com/homesteading-and-livestock/training-dogs-not-to-kill-chickens-zbcz1705

    On – By John Klar

  • Barn Cats — 7 Myths Debunked | Homesteading

    Barn Cats — 7 Myths Debunked | Homesteading

    If you have a homestead or farm, then you most likely also have barn cats. In fact, barn cats are as much a staple of the barnyard as livestock. Barn cats help keep the barn clean of mice and rats, which can save you the arduous task of trying to get rid of them yourself. However, over the years I’ve heard a lot of negative opinions and incorrect care “tips” about the barn cat.

    Barn Cats: The Fact and the Fiction

    Having grown up with barn cats myself — and still having them — I find that people are full of misconceptions about them. So, let’s go over some of what people are saying about the barn cat. Then you can look at what I, and others, actually experience with these very helpful and really necessary part of your homestead.

    You Can’t Have Tame Barn Cats — They Won’t Do Their Job

    This thought is far from factual. A feral cat will do no better or worse than a tamed cat in the barn. As a matter of fact, the friendlier that you can get your barn cats, the easier it will be for you. This is especially true if you want to get them rabies shots or need to take care of an injury. It will also be easier on the cats if you need to catch them, as live trapping can be traumatic for the cat. In addition, it can also make an already unfriendly feral cat even more unfriendly. Not to mention angry! This puts the person who needs to handle the cat at risk of being torn up by four paws full of sharp claws.

    If I Want Good Barn Cats, I Need to Let Mine Have Their Own Litters

    Again, false. If you have a cat who you feel has especially good genes that you really want to keep going, then you might want to let her have a litter. That way, you can try to keep those genetics on farm. Keep in mind, however, that barn cats tend to inbreed. This means that after a few generations, kittens tend to become sickly. This is counter productive to your desire to have good, healthy animals.

    With that said, if you really feel that you have a good cat, male or female, whose genetics you want to keep going, allow them only a few litters. Select one or two from the litters who will keep the lines going that you want, then spay or neuter the rest. But, with this route, you’ll always have to be vigilant that inbreeding doesn’t occur. Even if all your other cats are fixed, this can still be an issue. You’ll have to be more hands on than you will probably want to be. Plus, you’ll have to watch for heat cycles so there isn’t an “accident.” Not to mention the continual spay/neuter of the litters will be expensive. But, there is another, better alternative.

    barn cats spay neuter

    Many shelters now are offering barn cats for adoption. These are usually cats that are feral or may be a bit friendly, but they’re still not quite house cat material. Because of this, the shelters look for barn homes for these cats. These cats are usually spayed or neutered and may even have shots. Because some shelters have so many of these hard-to-place cats, I have seen them offered for adoption at a reduced cost. Sometimes they’re even free! You may have to prove that you have shelter for them as well as any other requirements that the shelter might have, but then you have the satisfaction of giving a “home to the homeless.” With this method, there’s also no worry about inbreeding or litters, as they are coming to you already spayed/neutered.

    As there is usually no shortage of the availability of these cats, you can usually always find some when you need them. With adoption, you keep your barn filled with cats without contributing to overpopulation! The shelter (or rescue) doesn’t have any available? Let them know that you are looking for animals for your barn, and you’re open to ferals who need to be placed. Then ask if they can contact you if and when they have any available.

    If I Feed My Barn Cats They Won’t Do Their Job, So I Let Them Fend for Themselves

    Once again, from my own (and others) experiences with barn cats, this is a total myth. In fact, starving your barn cats may not only encourage them to run away — especially if they find someplace else that puts food out — it could get you into a bit of trouble as well.

    Just because you feed your cats, that doesn’t mean that they won’t do their jobs as the rodent hit squad of your barn and grounds. In fact, quite the opposite. A well-fed cat means a happy, healthy cat that will get out there and hunt. And, from my experiences, it may encourage them to leave your wild birds alone.

    If I Let My Barn Cats in the House, They Won’t Want to Go Back to the Barn

    Most people will have their barn cats stay in the barn. However, once in a while the kids may have a favorite (or maybe even one of the adults may have a favorite). But let’s say you don’t really want an indoor cat. Not to fear! Letting your barn cat come inside won’t ruin it for the barn. While once it gets a taste of indoor life, it may prefer it, if you get the cat into a routine of bringing it in for a few hours then taking it back out, the cat will learn. Then, you may even have a cat who decides that an hour indoors is enough. After the hour, they may want to go back out voluntarily. When that happens, let the cat out even if you wanted it in longer. Don’t force it, or the cat won’t want to come back.

    If, for some reason, you need to bring a barn cat in for medical reasons — especially during fall/winter transitions — watch the weather. If the cat has been in recovery for weeks or months during warm weather and has missed that natural temperature transition, don’t just put him out if the weather is freezing or sub zero. The cat’s system will not have had time for the system to adapt to the drastic changes. Because of this, either keep your cat in till spring, or on the first nice day, let it our for a short time. Once the cats has briefly been exposed, bring it back in. Do this over and over, leaving the cat out a little longer each time. Within a month or so, the cat will probably be adapted to the cold enough. Then they can go out to the barn full-time once again.

    I Don’t Need to Put Out Water…They Can Find Plenty Around the Property!

    Although you may have (or think you may have) plenty of water sources around your property, always, always have a pot or two of fresh, clean water out for your barn cats. Even in the winter! While you may see one of your cats drinking from the nearest mud puddle, they still need clean water available to them at all times. I normally put one pot of water around their food. You can also put another in one of their other favorite hang out spot. Don’t forget to scrub the water pots out every so often, as they can get quite dirty and scummy on the inside. Also be sure to change the water daily.

    Feral Barn Cats Can Never Make Good House Cats

    If you have a lot of patience, some feral cats actually will make excellent house cats. In fact, some of my best, most loving house cats began feral. If you get a barn cat as a little kitten, it’s quite easy to make it a household pet. However, if you get them as juveniles or adults it will take more patience and work on your end.

    It can take time to get barn cats to trust, as well as time for them to get used to the indoors. Lastly, it takes time for them to realize that you actually pose them no danger. Don’t make fast moves towards them or force them to be picked up or pet. Work on the cat’s time, but also continually talk to them, call them by name, and give them treats. Eventually, they’ll come around. Some take as little as weeks, but others can take a month or more.

    barn cats house cats

    Now, all that said, there are some cats that — no matter what — do not want to be a house cat. Regardless of what you do, they’ll be unhappy if stuck inside. If this is the case, and it’s still a cat that you really want to make a pet out of, nothing is stopping you from making friends with the cat as he lives his life happily outdoors. And who knows? Maybe someday your favorite barn cat will want to be inside with its favorite human!

    I Can’t Bring A Barn Cat Indoors…..He’ll Mess All Over My House!

    Again, this couldn’t be further from the truth. I personally have never had a barn cat refuse a litter box when provided. Just make sure that the box is in a place where the cat can see it. (You can always move it later.) If you’re able to physically pick the cat up, you can also take it right up and into the litter box.

    The Perks of a Good Barn Cat

    So, there you have it. Some of the most common myths of keeping barn cats. Good barn cats are worth their weight in gold. If treated well, they’ll help keep your barn and/or property clean of rats and mice. Although they seem quite independent, as you can see, barn cats still need some care and attention. Treat them well, and your barn cats will reward you with years of pest control!

     

    Did we miss any barn cat myths you’ve had to debunk? Let us know in a comment below!

    Rats in your barn not your only homestead nuisance? Check out this article for 12 natural ways to get rid of flies!

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    https://homesteading.com/barn-cats-debunked/

    On – 30 Aug, 2017 By Kim Pezza

  • Beekeeping: An Easy Guide for Getting Started with Beekeeping and Valuable Things To Know When Producing Honey and Keeping Bees: 2 in 1 Bundle (Beekeeping for Beginners)

    Beekeeping: An Easy Guide for Getting Started with Beekeeping and Valuable Things To Know When Producing Honey and Keeping Bees: 2 in 1 Bundle (Beekeeping for Beginners)


    2 books in 1:Beekeeping: An Easy Guide for Getting Started with BeekeepingBeekeeping: Valuable Things To Know When Producing Honey and Keeping BeesBook 1:An Easy Guide for Getting Started with BeekeepingBeekeeping is a fun, easy-to-learn, inexpensive, and uniquely rewarding hobby that nearly anyone can do. Perhaps that’s why it’s growing in popularity, with new members joining…;





    2 books in 1:

    • Beekeeping: An Easy Guide for Getting Started with Beekeeping
    • Beekeeping: Valuable Things To Know When Producing Honey and Keeping Bees

    Book 1:

    An Easy Guide for Getting Started with Beekeeping

    Beekeeping is a fun, easy-to-learn, inexpensive, and uniquely rewarding hobby that nearly anyone can do. Perhaps that’s why it’s growing in popularity, with new members joining local and national beekeeping groups in greater numbers each year, and new apiculture conferences and even scholarships coming online. Interest is up all around the world, as evidenced by numerous backyard beekeeping meetups, community workshops, and beekeeper training events that seem to crop up almost everywhere you look.

    This book contains a wealth of knowledge that comes from years of experience, distilled down to the essentials that every beginner needs. It offers practical advice to guide you all the way through your first season, from sourcing bees and equipment right through harvesting honey and preparing the hive for winter. Wherever I could, I also included tidbits, tricks, and shortcuts I wish I had known starting out – anything to make the job of beekeeping easier for you on your first time out.

    Within this book’s pages, you’ll find the answers to these questions and more. Just some of the questions and topics covered include

    • Beekeeping Basics
    • All About Bees
    • Types of Bees
    • Hive Structure
    • Honey Flows
    • Making Preparations
    • Beekeeping by the Seasons
    • Problems to Watch Out For
    • Harvest and Winterization
    • And more!

    To get you up to speed quickly on a fascinating hobby that will not only help you feel more centered and connected with the natural world, but that can be shared with every member of the family, this book will walk you through the process of beekeeping in a step-wise fashion. From thinking about your space requirements and the placement of your hive to building a robust bee colony in your first year, I’ll offer detailed advice you can put to use right away. When you’re ready to harvest, you can break out this book again as a handy reference to guide you through, step by step.

    Book 2:

    Valuable Things to Know When Producing Honey and Keeping Bees

    This book contains advanced knowledge about bees, tips on beekeeping, and strategies to manage colonies for optimal honey production. It can help anyone, from the beginner to the experienced apiculturist, and is intended to be a fun, short read that’s bursting with juicy tidbits that can turn any apiary into a healthy, thriving, more successful one.

    I’ll start by sharing some interesting background about the special relationship between humans and bees before laying out the growth and health strategies I use to maintain several dozen buzzing, healthy colonies at any one time. As many beekeepers can attest, learning the tricks of the trade is a process of discovery. Along the way, little secrets and tips—usually from other apiculturists—come together to form a bigger picture of the complex goings-on inside the hive.
    In this text I’ll share some of the best tidbits I’ve learned about beekeeping over the years.

    Within this book’s pages, you’ll find the answers to these questions and more. Just some of the questions and topics covered include

    • There’s More to Bees than Honey
    • Managing a Colony for Optimal Honey Production
    • Optimal Colony Population
    • Moving Bees
    • Requeening
    • Splitting the Colony
    • Keeping Your Bees Healthy and Safe
    • Basic Health Check
    • Problems and Solutions
    • And more!

    Don’t hesitate to pick up your copy today by clicking the BUY NOW button at the top of this page!



    Full Customer Reviews:


  • 5 Animals NOT to Raise for Meat and 3 Beginners Shouldn’t Attempt

    5 Animals NOT to Raise for Meat and 3 Beginners Shouldn’t Attempt

    Do you ever find yourself on different homestead forums and wonder how you got sucked into reading the conversation?

    Well, that is the predicament I found myself in the other night. I was scrolling through social media sites where I follow a few homesteading forums. One of the questions was, “Can you raise a horse for meat in the United States?”

    Naturally, my interest was piqued. Not because I wanted to try horse meat or even raise a horse.

    Honestly, I just wanted to know the answer and what people would say to that. There were many different animals, but it got me thinking, what other animals should people not raise for meat and why?

    So I’m going to share with you a few animals that most homesteaders in the Western culture probably should steer clear of for the purpose of meat and why you should do so.

    Also, I’m going to add a few animals that I would not recommend for new homesteaders either.

    Homestead Meat Animals – The No-no’s

    Here are my suggestions:

    1. Horses

    The first animal mentioned here is going to be a horse. I read this forum in regards to horses being used for meat.

    Now, in other cultures, people do raise horses for meat, but there is a difference. For starters, in the United States, most states have deemed it illegal to raise horses for meat.

    So if you raise these animals for meat in those places, you will be breaking the law. Eating horses in the United States would be dangerous anyway because of the vaccinations most people give their horses. They can actually make the meat toxic.

    Now, I know a lot of people deem this a waste since horses are usually buried when they die, but you still shouldn’t eat them.

    Also, horses can be used after they die to make glue, but are rarely used for that anymore either. According to Horses and Horse Information, most glue is actually made of byproducts of cows because where we eat so many burgers as a culture, there is plenty left over parts to make glue out of now.

    So horses aren’t needed for that. But don’t get discouraged. If you want to raise a horse to ride, breed, or use for their muscle around the farm, they are still very useful animals and great for many things. Just don’t add meat to the list of purposes.

    2. Birds

    There are many birds that you won’t want to raise for meat. In our culture, parrots are usually used as pets and not looked upon as meat birds.

    But you also will want to probably stay away from smaller birds too, like parakeets or even bantam chickens.

    Bantam chickens are one of the more common varieties that you’ll see on a farm, but most do not raise them for meat. They are raised for their small eggs and setting abilities.

    So the reason I say stay clear of the ‘pet’ varieties of birds and the smaller livestock birds is that the smaller livestock varieties won’t produce very much meat for the work that goes into them.

    While the pet variety of birds could put you in the cross-fire of some heated discussions and potential breaking of laws in your area. So if you decide to think outside of the box for raising meat always check your local laws first.

    3. Dogs

    Do you remember this fun game as a child that was based on a dog? I still play this game with my own children, but I’m not referencing the game today. A lot of cultures actually eat dog meat and think that it is very good.

    However, this is another meat option that the United States has pretty well taken off of the table. You have to be careful even hunting certain species that are related to the dog.

    So if you are raising a whole slew of dogs, it needs to be for pet purposes or training them to be service animals or sled dogs only.

    But coyotes (which are closely related to a dog) are actually becoming a problem in some areas, and there are some states that will actually pay you to hunt them. In that case, I’m sure it would be okay to actually ingest the meat.

    However, I’d still check with local law enforcement before doing so, and I’d also make sure you did your research on what you are eating.

    But always remember, dogs make great pets and certainly have a place on the homestead for other purposes. Here is a great resource on choosing the right dog to protect your livestock.

    Honestly, I know some cultures don’t look at them like pets so I’m sure it does make them a viable meat source. For myself, my dogs are part of my family so I couldn’t imagine ever considering them a meat source. Just know that if you live in the US, dogs are not allowed on your meat list.

    4. Cats

    When I was growing up, my mom and I ate out a lot. The people at her office kept bragging on this little local restaurant and said that we just had to eat there, and we did eventually.

    Unfortunately, a few weeks later the place was closed down for serving cat as chicken. I ate the chicken while I was there! That is something I’ve never quite gotten over if I’m honest.

    Now, I’m not sure if what I ate was actually chicken or not, but I prefer to think that it was. I’m a cat person so I can’t bear to think that I accidentally ate one.

    Either way, I’m sure you know where I’m going with this. Again, in other cultures, eating cat is totally okay, but not in the United States.

    However, don’t think that cats don’t have a place on your homestead because they do. Cats make excellent pets. They are great companions and petting them can actually help you to calm down and lower your blood pressure.

    But you can also adopt a stray cat and have it neutered or spayed so it can keep your barn free of pests. Here is a great resource if that interests you.

    5. Buffaloes

    Would you believe the same day I found myself fascinated with the post about eating a horse that I saw an unusual ad of people selling Buffalo? In our area that is very uncommon.

    Now, I understand that people raise buffalo, and they are great animals. I also know that bison burger is some of the best burgers I’ve ever eaten.

    As well as, the ad said that Buffalo can also be used as dairy animals. They would require a lot of room, though, and appeared to be very expensive.

    Obviously, the pricing is understandable since they are a rarity where I live.

    However, though I’ve said all of these great things about Buffalo, I’ve added them to the list of things I wouldn’t recommend on raising for meat because I don’t want a new homesteader jumping right into it.

    See, Buffalo are massive animals. They require a lot of know-how because one wrong move and they could easily kill you.

    So if you have some experience dealing with larger animals, and you have the room for a buffalo, then you might want to consider it.

    But for newer homesteaders (or small homesteaders), you’ll want to bypass this meat source.

    6. Donkeys

    When I wrote this article about some of the best animals for milk, I developed a whole new appreciation for the donkey. The reason is I found that they actually produce some of the best and healthiest milk for human consumption because it is the closest to human milk.

    But I already loved donkeys because they are great for guarding your livestock. Where we purchased our first goat from, the owner told us that he had a coyote problem when he first moved in with his goats.

    Then he purchased a donkey to guard them, and the donkey killed a bunch of coyotes and sent enough of a message that the rest of the coyotes moved out. That is my kind of animal!

    However, you will not want to raise donkeys for their meat. It is my understanding that their meat can be really tough and it actually stinks. I don’t know about you, but if I have to fix something that smells bad only to have to chew on a piece of tough meat to be able to ingest it, I’ll just mark that one off of my list.

    So donkeys can be very useful around your homestead, I just wouldn’t add them to the menu.

    7. Cows

    Cows are great animals. They are pretty easy to keep on pasture, they are great for meat, and some people enjoy them for dairy as well.

    So why did I add them to the list?

    Well, because I don’t think they are a good animal for a new homesteader to just jump right into raising. They are large animals that can easily take you out with one swift kick or a headbutt.

    So if you are new to the homesteading scene, as appealing as these animals may seem, I would recommend that you get your feet wet, and you really research before you invest in a cow. They are no small investment and really should be respected.

    8. Hogs

    Our final animal for the list today is a hog. I don’t mean some sweet little 100-pound pig that will follow you around. I’m talking about hogs that you see on hog farms. These animals easily weigh 400 pounds.

    Actually, I recall when we raised pigs on our smaller homestead. We invested in the smaller breeds that were about 100 pounds. They weren’t very intimidating and served their purpose for us.

    But when my step-dad found out I was getting ‘pigs’, he automatically assumed I was getting a hog. He flipped his lid. He repeatedly told me I shouldn’t do that. They can be mean and could easily toss me around or worse.

    However, when he came for a visit and saw my sweet mini-pig breed, he was very relieved. Though I’ll be honest, I wouldn’t let my younger boys in the pen with the pigs because they still could probably knock them around if they wanted to. Luckily, I had sweet pigs.

    Then one of our friends invited us over to their hog farm. We now trade meat with them, but I was stunned the first time I saw the farm. There were these large houses where the pigs were kept and these pigs were huge!

    When he culled the first hog for us (so we could get an idea of what it was like) he literally shot one hog right between the eyes with a larger caliber hand gun and the pig just stood there like nothing had happened. It took a second shot to put him down. My mind was blown.

    I knew then why his wife would always go with him to care for the pigs. She is afraid that if something were to happen to him while caring for the pigs that he could be in trouble.

    So again, hogs are great animals for meat, and they can be good natured. But if you are a new homesteader, I don’t recommend that you jump right into raising hogs for meat because they are large animals. You need to really do your research.

    Also, they too should be highly respected because these animals could easily cause you harm if you are inexperienced and trying to handle one.

    So you now have 8 animals that you either should not raise for meat, period or should not start out your homesteading career raising.

    But I’d like to hear from you. Is there another animal that you wouldn’t recommend (or people just shouldn’t) raise?

    We love hearing from you so please leave us your comments in the space below.

    https://morningchores.com/meat-animals/

    On – 10 Sep, 2017 By Jennifer

  • Why your Labrador isn’t going to be a good livestock guardian

    Why your Labrador isn’t going to be a good livestock guardian

    A recent discussion popped up on Facebook this morning in which a member of a homesteading group bragged about what a good livestock guardian and hunting dog his Labrador was. This post got posted in a livestock guardian breed group, which resulted in much, much eye-rolling.

    It is certainly true that there are dogs that make excellent livestock guardian dogs that aren’t of the typical breeds. Mark Derr has written extensively about the mongrel dogs of the Navajo that guard their sheep, but within those dogs, there is quite a bit of variance about which ones are good at the task and which ones would rather go roaming and hunting.

    The breeds that have undergone selection for this work are much more likely to be successful. All these breeds have been selected for high defense drive and low prey drive. Little lambs can go jumping around these dogs, and their instinct to hunt and kill prey will not be stimulated.

    Most dogs bred in the West are bred for the opposite behaviors.  The most popular breeds are usually from the gun dog and herding groups, and those breeds tend to have been selected for relatively high prey drive. Those dogs are much more likely to engage in predatory behavior towards them.

    Further, breeds like Labradors are bred to have low defense drive. Labradors are very rarely good guard dogs. They have been bred to fit in the British shooting scene where they would regularly be exposed to other dogs and strangers, and these dogs have had much of their territorial and status-based aggression bred out of them. If the coyote shows up to a farm guarded by a Labrador, chances are very high that the Labrador will try to play with the coyote. It might bark at the coyote and intimidate the predator as well, but there aren’t many Labradors that are going to fight a coyote that comes menacing the flock.

    The poster with the LGD Labrador claimed that Labradors were great herding dogs. When pressed on this point, he posted a photo of some yellow dogs moving a herd of beef cattle. These dogs weren’t Labradors. They were blackmouth curs, a breed that can superficially look like a Labrador, but it is a hunting and herding breed that is quite common parts of the South and Texas.  You could in theory train a Labrador to herd sheep, but I doubt you could ever train one to herd cattle. And the herding behavior would be far substandard to a breed actually bred for it.

    The poster claimed that Labradors were “bred down from Newfoundlands,” and Newfoundlands are livestock guardians. The problem with this statement is that it is totally false. As I’ve noted many times on the blog, the big Newfoundland dog was actually bred up from the St. John’s water dog. Every genetic study on breed evolution, clearly puts this breed with the retrievers. This dog was mostly created for the British and American pet market, but it is a very large type of retriever.

    And contrary to what I have written on this blog, it is now clear that retrievers and Newfoundlands are not an offshoot of the livestock guardian breeds.  A limited genetic study that also found Middle Eastern origins for all dogs had this finding, but a more complete genetic study found that retrievers and the Newfoundlad are actually a divergent form of gundog.

    dog breed wheel newfoundland

    I have not written much about this study, but it does change some of my retriever history posts. It turns out that Irish water spaniels are also retrievers and are very closely related to the curly-coated retrievers. It has been suggested that curly-coated retrievers are actually older than the St. John’s water dog imports, but conventional breed history holds that they are crosses between St. John’s water dogs and some form of water spaniel. It may actually be that something like a curly-coated retriever is the ancestor of the St. John’s water dog, and this dog would have been called a “water spaniel.”  I have not worked this one out yet. The dogs we call Newfoundland dogs, though, are much more closely related to the Labrador, flat-coated, and golden retrievers than to the curly-coated retriever and the Irish water spaniel. Thus, the Labrador and the Newfoundland dog are cousins, but the Labrador is not “bred down from the Newfoundland.”

    The other clue that Newfoundland dogs and their kin aren’t good LGDs is that in Newfoundland, the sheep industry was actually severely retarded by the dogs. Fishermen let their dogs roam the countryside, and any time someone set out a flock of sheep, the water dogs, which I would call St. John’s water dogs, would descend upon the flocks and savage them.

    So the natural history of the Labrador totally conflicts with its likely ability to be a good livestock guardian. The British bred these dogs to be extremely social, and their prey drive has been selected for.  They also have this entire history in which their ancestors went out hunting for their own food, which means they do have the capacity to become sheep hunting dogs.

    The poster didn’t appreciate when these facts were pointed out. The response was that the other people were racist for saying that Labrador isn’t likely to be a good LGD, especially a Labrador that has been used for hunting.

    This is problematic because dog breeds are not equivalent to human races. Human races are just naturally occurring variations that have evolved in our species as we have spread across the globe. Most of these differences are superficial, and none are such that it would justify any racial discrimination in law or policy.

    Dog breeds, however, have been selectively bred for characteristics. The eugenics movement, the Nazis, and the slaveholders who selectively bred slaves are the only people who have engaged in the selective breeding of people. And all these periods in history have lasted only a very short time before they were deemed to be gross violations of human rights.

    For some reason, people have a hard time accepting these facts about dogs, but the very same people often have no problem with an analogy with livestock.

    If I want high milk yields, I will not buy Angus cattle. If I want marbled beef, I won’t buy Holsteins. If I want ducks to lay lots of eggs, I wouldn’t get Pekins, which will lay about 75 eggs a year. I would get Welsh harlequins, which might lay 280 a year. But they don’t get very big, and their meat yields are very low.

    Angus cattle and Holsteins are the same species. Welsh harlequins and Pekins are too. But they have been selected for different traits.

    Dogs have undergone similar selection. A Labrador retriever has its own history. So does a Central Asian shepherd.

    Accepting that these dogs have different traits does not make one a racist. It merely means that one respects the truth of selective breeding.

    And that’s why a Labrador isn’t really a good LGD.

    Like this:

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    https://retrieverman.net/2017/09/16/why-your-labrador-isnt-going-to-be-a-good-livestock-guardian/

    On – 16 Sep, 2017 By retrieverman

  • How To Raise A Homestead Dairy Cow – The Good Survivalist

    How To Raise A Homestead Dairy Cow – The Good Survivalist

    homestead dairy cow

    A lot of homesteading prepper families choose to invest in a homestead dairy cow for their property. This will provide a lot of milk for your family – and possibly some extra for your pigs, if you’re raising those as well.

    You can consume the milk, or create yogurt, ice cream and other items from her milk. Each type of cow and size will produce different amounts of milk, so you may want to consider a smaller option such as a goat (see video below) if your family doesn’t use much milk.

    Or, if you live in a prepper community, you could share the milk with others in the community – along with the chores of raising it. It’s critical that you milk your cow at the same time each and every day, so scheduling is important.

    Some people have questions about the safety of drinking raw milk, but you can also buy a pasteurizer for your family to use. They’re not expensive and it will provide you with the same safety that you get off the grocery shelves.

    It can get expensive to raise a dairy cow if you’re having to buy all of your hay, but many prepper families grow their own, so that cuts down on the cost of raising your dairy cow quite a bit.

    You can visit a dairy farm and ask if they have any lower milk producing cows they want to get rid of. If the volume isn’t enough for a dairy farm, they’ll often sell off the cows to a family that requires a much lower volume of milk.

    Most experts recommend that you get a Jersey dairy cow, but there are many choices. You want one that’s gentle and won’t be hostile to you or your small children in a farming situation.

    You have to make sure that your property has room for her to graze and roam around. If you get a Brown Swiss or Dexter cow, then you can allow for more grass grazing than hay feed, which saves you money in the long run.

    Your dairy cow will produce milk twice a day for about a year. After about 10 months, give her some time off for a few months and then let her produce another calf to begin milk production again.

    Remember that your water supply has to be enough to provide for a dairy cow’s needs. They can drink anywhere from 25-40 gallons of water each day. Be sure you have enough water for her and the needs of your family.

    Your homestead dairy cow might produce anywhere from 2-8 gallons of milk per day, so make sure you don’t over-invest in something that’s going to make all of the milk production go to waste.

    http://www.thegoodsurvivalist.com/how-to-raise-a-homestead-dairy-cow/

    On – 02 Sep, 2017 By Good Survivalist

  • When we were planting our orchard nearly 4 years ago I didn’t have too…

    When we were planting our orchard nearly 4 years ago I didn’t have too…

    image
    ?When we were planting our orchard nearly 4 years ago I didn’t have too many concerns about which trees should be planted where. ??But I do remember being quite emphatic about our quince tree. ? .
    ?It HAD to be planted in the closest possible position to the house, where it’s stunning display of flowers in springtime could be seen from every vantage point.?
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    ? I still think it’s one of the most beautiful fruit tree blossoms we have, and this year it’s putting on a real show for us!? (Not to mention this little bee as well!) ?????
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    #blossom #springtime #orchard #blossoms #savethebees #gardeningaustralia #growyourownfood #thehappygardeninglife #urbangardening #organicgardening #urbanorganicgardener #seedsnow #gardenactivist #greenthumb #quince #fruittree #gardenlove #urbangarden #organicgarden #permaculture #homesteading #horticulture #gardentips #allotment #mygarden #veggiepatch #vegetablegarden #harvest #gardentotable

  • Sprouted grain for the chooks – such a simple way to increase the nutrients…

    Sprouted grain for the chooks – such a simple way to increase the nutrients…

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    Sprouted grain for the chooks – such a simple way to increase the nutrients in their diet and minimise bought feed… the chickens eat their fill but only eat half the quantity when the grain is sprouted.
    .

    To make, fill a bucket 3/4 full of grain (this is waste barley), top up with water to just cover grain, leave somewhere cool for a week with a lid on, and that’s it. Shouldn’t be that simple, but it is… #permacultureskills #melliodora

  • Build a Manger to Feed Your Goats

    Build a Manger to Feed Your Goats

      

    For anyone who raises livestock, you know that providing their animals with the proper amount of food is extremely important. When it comes feeding goats and ensuring they have adequate supply of hay at all times, nothing beats a manger for this purpose. This article was designed to introduce all the readers to a DIY project for building one.

    Build a Manger to Feed Your Goats

    This Do It Yourself project was created, posted and posted for all of the readers to view on a website called Sensible Survival. The project includes a complete plan that will help any homesteader or farmer who raises goats to build the perfect feeder for their herd of goats. Everything needed to build it can easily be picked up at any local supply of hardware store. It is presented in a way that most people will find extremely easy to read and understand.

    Benefits of reading the Build a Manger to Feed Your Goats

    Use it to build the perfect feeder for your homestead of farm to ensure your goats have plenty of food.
    The project includes a complete list of all of the materials, supplies and tools needed to get started.
    It also includes a complete, easy to follow step by step instruction guide that will help everyone build one.
    You will also find numerous full color pictures that will provide a good visual representation.

    Click here to read about:

    https://sensiblesurvival.org/2014/12/05/build-a-manger-for-your-goats/ 

    https://thehomesteadsurvival.com/build-manger-feed-goats/

    On – 24 Feb, 2017 By

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