Category: Fencing

Fencing

  • Barakah Heritage Farm version 6.0

    Barakah Heritage Farm version 6.0

    So here we are in Winnsboro, South Carolina, neck deep in the farm restart.

    This time around is a radically different farm model.

    We have moved to a VERY different climate in the deep south, after 50+ years of living in the northeast.  The plants are different, the growing season different, the soil is different.

     

    This is also our first time with a truly distributed farm model.  In the past we did have horses split between

    two nearby farms for a brief period, but that was the extent of spreading the work over multiple properties.  Version 6.0 has the rabbits, livestock dogs, gardens (and pets) at the farm office (also our home and undergoing a complete renovation) while the goats and horses occupy a nearby farm.  The farm has buildings but no fences, and the home office has fences but no farm buildings or established gardens.  What an interesting new challenge!

    I’m going to give a shout out to a software program.  If it weren’t for Blue, I don’t know that I could juggle all these projects.  I’m not getting any compensation, I just love the software that much.

    So here’s what is going on right now:

    Gardens are in various stages of being dug, edged, fertilized and planted.   We are again creating a biointensive permaculture system, but blending it in with general

    landscaping.  Plants are doing double duty at this property, looking nice AND feeding the family.  This season the focus is on producing our favorite heirloom

    varieties for personal use.  Any crop that we can buy relatively inexpensively in bulk at the grocery we skipped – onions, carrots, potatoes, garlic, winter squashes.  That means tomatoes, lots of greens like kale and chard and lettuces, and some basic herbs, all heirloom varieties for the unique flavors and colors.  I put in a pollinator garden with a water fountain the first season we were here, and fluffed it up this spring. It still needs a low water dish for the insects.

    Additionally we are planning out where key perennial food crops like hazlenuts and artichoke will go.

    The bunnies are not currently part of Bunnyville, so they moved to headquarters (such a fancy name for a modest beginning LOL) and are happily eating greens from our yard and producing wonderful fertilizer for the new gardens.

    We put poultry projects on hold, until we see if and how they might fit in with the new farm model.

    Over at the 250 acre farm, everything happened and is happening in stages.  The first step was basic shelter and containment, so wire mesh fencing beefed up with electric to hold goats and horses both.  Stalls were cleaned out, repaired and set up.  Once everyone had shelter and fencing that worked with or without power, then the bigger fencing projects and reopening the money-earning tours could start.  Horses looked like the quickest win, so a tour pen and then riding area came first, followed by the first of the rotation grazing areas and the runway, in a layout that meshes with the current land uses.  As I add each rotation, I’m also extending the perimeter to capture more land and eventually should have about 15 acres fenced for rotation and runways.  I’m reusing a lot of the fence equipment that traveled with us, and taking the best of what worked before.  T-posts and tape fencing for the perimeters, narrow tape and step ins for the rotations, and a very powerful DC energizer to keep the deer off the fences and the horses in.

     

    For the goats, it started with the 2 pens and shelters.  Next up was getting the tour area built.  Concurrently, I’m designing their rotation grazing areas, making decisions on what has the best browse, will hold them, and will be easy to move them to.  The goats must come back in at night because of predator pressure from local coyotes, black vultures and hawks.

    So, how does this all get done?  By setting aside a small block of time each day for each project – typically 1 to 2 hours, breaking the projects down into manageable steps, and keeping track of it all with due dates in the Blue software.  Many of the projects must happen concurrently so keep the farm financially on track, so small steps forward rather than big pushes on one project at a time makes the most sense.

    So that’s what’s happening these days at Barakah Heritage Farm.  We hope you will come see us if you are in the area, and stay tuned for the first goat kids of 2024!

    -Carrie and all the fur-kin

  • Barakah Farm’s Un-heritage Muscovy Ducks

    Barakah Farm’s Un-heritage Muscovy Ducks

    [Viewer caution:  Some of the resource videos contain music and/or uncovered women]

    Our farm normally works with heritage and heirloom varieties.  We made an exception for these ducks.

    Muscovy ducks are not a heritage breed.  They are not rare (in fact, some consider them pests and for sure they can be invasive)  However, our particular muscovies come from homestead-suitable bloodlines carefully selected on a friend’s farm over many generations for foraging ability, quick gains, large size and temperament.  These are known as meat ducks but are also decent egg layers.  They are quiet, do not require a pond, roost high, raise several batches of ducklings annually (usually 10+ ducklings per nest) and the adults will eat up to a pound of flies daily – each.  Ducks are generally more gentle to garden plants (except greens) and will not uproot or eat plantings the way chickens will.  The meat is dark, more like roast beef, and lean.  These ducks have large claws for tree climbing, and they know how to use them.  Between the claws and the large size, they are more resistant to the smaller predators.  We keep our muscovies for insect control and eggs.

    Muscovies can be a very efficient and useful homestead addition, and can also be part of a nice homestead income.  Below is a collection of our research on muscovy care, efficient feeding, and business building.

    Tip:  Plant trees that will provide shade and feed for the ducks and for you.  Set up your water stations next to the trees on some pavers.  Dump the dirty water to water the trees.

    For a no soy, no gmo corn, no gmo system, consider peanut meal, black oil sunflower seeds, blackfly larvae.  You can grow your own heirloom corn.  You can sprout grains and sunflower seeds for more efficient digestion.

    This is a great video on blackflies for food, including an easy farm unit you can build yourself.

    This is a good video about sprouting seeds.

    We made our own rolling sprouting system to put in the downstairs shower using an inexpensive rolling metal utility rack, and the some plastic containers with holes drilled in the bottom.   We currently plan to sprout only sunflower seeds in 2020, and add our own heirloom corn in 2021, God willing.

    Before assuming that organic is best, look at the care, the facility, the food choice. Educate yourself and your customers about humane husbandry and natural feed.  Feed is your biggest expense.  Ducks can be organic by feeding organic feed, and yet live in factory conditions.  Clean healthy feed and a humane life matter more, in my opinion.

    You can run ducks in your garden around mature crops and perennials.  Do not run ducks with your young sprouting plants or your greens.  For those of your raising goats or other livestock that get meningeal worm, ducks control the snails and slugs that host the parasite.

    This article from Milkwood has some great information.  “For someone raising ducks for meat, the ducklings grow out to a good size (but not full size) by 10-12 weeks, and it’s at this time, before they get their full set of adult feathers, that home harvest makes the most sense from both a practical (plucking) and a output-for-input point of view.”

    We converted an old corn drying barn into a night shelter and laying area for the ducks, and during the day they free range (thank goodness for tolerant neighbors during our learning phase).  To prevent wandering, we make sure the ducks get treats during the day and feed the main meal in evening to lure them back to night shelter.  We clip the wing feathers of the adult birds after each molt to keep them walking, not flying.  If the ducks have enough space and enough food, not too many males competing for females, and have formed the habit of staying around, they generally stick to a couple acres here at home.  The ducks are big enough to discourage smaller predators, though eagles find them tasty and easy to grab, and loose dogs or larger predators will still take one if given a chance.

    Please reach out to us if you would like to learn more about our system or visit the farm.


    Coming this spring!  Free-range duck eggs for eating, hatching eggs, and starter flocks of adult birds.  Local pickup or delivery (with appropriate safety measure and distancing) and we can ship! We do not offer meat ducks.  Please call/email for referral to separate local meat share business, including halal. Online ordering coming soon. 

    Eggs for eating $1/each $7/dozen
    Hatching eggs from select hens $2/each $20/dozen
    Adult starter flock (1 drake, 2 hens) $100 (includes mentoring)

    Email us to get on the waiting list!

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