Category: Fertilizer & Compost

Fertilizer & Compost

  • Barakah Heritage Farm version 6.0

    Barakah Heritage Farm version 6.0

    So here we are in Winnsboro, South Carolina, neck deep in the farm restart.

    This time around is a radically different farm model.

    We have moved to a VERY different climate in the deep south, after 50+ years of living in the northeast.  The plants are different, the growing season different, the soil is different.

     

    This is also our first time with a truly distributed farm model.  In the past we did have horses split between

    two nearby farms for a brief period, but that was the extent of spreading the work over multiple properties.  Version 6.0 has the rabbits, livestock dogs, gardens (and pets) at the farm office (also our home and undergoing a complete renovation) while the goats and horses occupy a nearby farm.  The farm has buildings but no fences, and the home office has fences but no farm buildings or established gardens.  What an interesting new challenge!

    I’m going to give a shout out to a software program.  If it weren’t for Blue, I don’t know that I could juggle all these projects.  I’m not getting any compensation, I just love the software that much.

    So here’s what is going on right now:

    Gardens are in various stages of being dug, edged, fertilized and planted.   We are again creating a biointensive permaculture system, but blending it in with general

    landscaping.  Plants are doing double duty at this property, looking nice AND feeding the family.  This season the focus is on producing our favorite heirloom

    varieties for personal use.  Any crop that we can buy relatively inexpensively in bulk at the grocery we skipped – onions, carrots, potatoes, garlic, winter squashes.  That means tomatoes, lots of greens like kale and chard and lettuces, and some basic herbs, all heirloom varieties for the unique flavors and colors.  I put in a pollinator garden with a water fountain the first season we were here, and fluffed it up this spring. It still needs a low water dish for the insects.

    Additionally we are planning out where key perennial food crops like hazlenuts and artichoke will go.

    The bunnies are not currently part of Bunnyville, so they moved to headquarters (such a fancy name for a modest beginning LOL) and are happily eating greens from our yard and producing wonderful fertilizer for the new gardens.

    We put poultry projects on hold, until we see if and how they might fit in with the new farm model.

    Over at the 250 acre farm, everything happened and is happening in stages.  The first step was basic shelter and containment, so wire mesh fencing beefed up with electric to hold goats and horses both.  Stalls were cleaned out, repaired and set up.  Once everyone had shelter and fencing that worked with or without power, then the bigger fencing projects and reopening the money-earning tours could start.  Horses looked like the quickest win, so a tour pen and then riding area came first, followed by the first of the rotation grazing areas and the runway, in a layout that meshes with the current land uses.  As I add each rotation, I’m also extending the perimeter to capture more land and eventually should have about 15 acres fenced for rotation and runways.  I’m reusing a lot of the fence equipment that traveled with us, and taking the best of what worked before.  T-posts and tape fencing for the perimeters, narrow tape and step ins for the rotations, and a very powerful DC energizer to keep the deer off the fences and the horses in.

     

    For the goats, it started with the 2 pens and shelters.  Next up was getting the tour area built.  Concurrently, I’m designing their rotation grazing areas, making decisions on what has the best browse, will hold them, and will be easy to move them to.  The goats must come back in at night because of predator pressure from local coyotes, black vultures and hawks.

    So, how does this all get done?  By setting aside a small block of time each day for each project – typically 1 to 2 hours, breaking the projects down into manageable steps, and keeping track of it all with due dates in the Blue software.  Many of the projects must happen concurrently so keep the farm financially on track, so small steps forward rather than big pushes on one project at a time makes the most sense.

    So that’s what’s happening these days at Barakah Heritage Farm.  We hope you will come see us if you are in the area, and stay tuned for the first goat kids of 2024!

    -Carrie and all the fur-kin

  • Barakah Heritage Farm garden adventures 2020 – garden layout + early spring cold-loving plants

    Barakah Heritage Farm garden adventures 2020 – garden layout + early spring cold-loving plants

    We got the main veggie garden finished, except for one bed that will be double dug and composted this summer for fall crops.  Now that this garden is done, we can start planning and then planting.  (We will finish and plant the commercial garden and the potato/livestock feed garden in a week or so.

    We spend at least as much time planning the garden as we do actually planting, to make sure we get the best yields for our work, God willing.  Here are the steps that go into planning the garden for the year.  If this was a CSA or market garden, there would be even more planning involved to make sure enough was produced at all times to meet customer demand.  For us, because the garden is for our own use plus some impulse purchases by farm guests, we can be just a bit more relaxed this year.

    Our first step was to take a seed inventory, and go shopping to fill in any gaps.  We aren’t planting everything that we like to grow, just what the current bed space and our time will allow.  We keep a wish list of new plants to add each year.

    Make planning index cards, one per plant type.  Tomatoes get multiple cards because I like to space the tomatoes out, one per bed, around the edges of the garden to trellis them on the fence.  The cards include whether it is an early plant (E), normal, or late season (F for fall), whether it gets planted in succession (R for repeat), what other plants it likes, time to germination and harvest and notes about how it grew in previous years.  On the back of the card we mark what bed it is going in, at the end of the planning process.
    Draw out a master diagram of the garden beds.  If you don’t have a big whiteboard, you can tape paper together, or even draw with chalk on the driveway.
    Start laying cards out on the beds, moving them around to allow for preferred neighbors and also to avoid planting in the same spot as last year (this reduces disease and pests).  We also keep the tastiest plants away from the perimeter fence to (God willing) avoid tempting the goats.

    When all the cards are allocated to beds,  snap pics of each bed to save for planting and for next year’s planning.  Tip:  save the pics in your phone.  When you begin planting, you can pull up the pics for a handy planting diagram.

    This year’s early season crops include:

    • Lettuce
    • Radishes
    • Garlic
    • Onions
    • Carrots
    • Spinach
    • Turnip
    • Kale
    • Cilantro/Coriander
    • Cabbage

    For the actual planting, just follow the directions on each seed packet, or your notes on your handy cards if you are seed saving.  We actually cut the spacing roughly in half but no smaller than the expected size of the adult plant, and reduced the number of seeds, per the techniques of Square Foot Gardening, but without the expense and precise measurements of that technique.  Not sure if SFG is for you?  Here’s a balanced look at the pros and cons.

    So, the garden is planted and the rows labeled with a pink paint pen on small rocks.  Our next project, and next post, will be the commercial and potato/livestock gardens, God willing.

    Until then, happy planning and planting!  Stay warm!

  • Holy Shit: Managing Manure to Save Mankind

    Holy Shit: Managing Manure to Save Mankind

    This entry is in the series Best Fertilizer & Soils Books

    In his insightful new book, Holy Shit: Managing Manure to Save Mankind, contrary farmer Gene Logsdon provides the inside story of manure-our greatest, yet most misunderstood, natural resource. He begins by lamenting a modern society that not only throws away both animal and human manure-worth billions of dollars in fertilizer value-but that spends a staggering…;



    Chelsea Green PublishingPrice: $17.50 $16.95 Free Shipping



    In his insightful new book, Holy Shit: Managing Manure to Save Mankind, contrary farmer Gene Logsdon provides the inside story of manure-our greatest, yet most misunderstood, natural resource. He begins by lamenting a modern society that not only throws away both animal and human manure-worth billions of dollars in fertilizer value-but that spends a staggering amount of money to do so. This wastefulness makes even less sense as the supply of mined or chemically synthesized fertilizers dwindles and their cost skyrockets. In fact, he argues, if we do not learn how to turn our manures into fertilizer to keep food production in line with increasing population, our civilization, like so many that went before it, will inevitably decline.

    With his trademark humor, his years of experience writing about both farming and waste management, and his uncanny eye for the small but important details, Logsdon artfully describes how to manage farm manure, pet manure and human manure to make fertilizer and humus. He covers the field, so to speak, discussing topics like:

    • How to select the right pitchfork for the job and use it correctly
    • How to operate a small manure spreader
    • How to build a barn manure pack with farm animal manure
    • How to compost cat and dog waste
    • How to recycle toilet water for irrigation purposes, and
    • How to get rid ourselves of our irrational paranoia about feces and urine.

    Gene Logsdon does not mince words. This fresh, fascinating and entertaining look at an earthy, but absolutely crucial subject, is a small gem and is destined to become a classic of our agricultural literature.

    Ships from Vermont



    Full Customer Reviews:


  • Homegrown Humus: Cover Crops in a No-Till Garden (Permaculture Gardener) (Volume 1)

    Homegrown Humus: Cover Crops in a No-Till Garden (Permaculture Gardener) (Volume 1)

    This entry is in the series Best Fertilizer & Soils Books

    Homegrown humus is easy with cover crops! Cover crops are a simple, cheap way to boost your soil’s organic matter, to fight weeds, to prevent erosion, to attract pollinators, and to keep the ecosystem in balance. Unfortunately, most information on growing cover crops is written for people who plow their soil every year and are…;



    CreateSpace Independent Publishing PlatformPrice: $6.99 Free Shipping



    Homegrown humus is easy with cover crops!

    Cover crops are a simple, cheap way to boost your soil’s organic matter, to fight weeds, to prevent erosion, to attract pollinators, and to keep the ecosystem in balance. Unfortunately, most information on growing cover crops is written for people who plow their soil every year and are willing to spray herbicides. You can get all of the same benefits in a no-till garden, though, if you’re clever.

    Homegrown Humus details five no-till winners in depth — buckwheat, sweet potatoes, oilseed radishes, rye, and oats. Profiles of other species suggest gardening conditions when you might want to try out sunflowers, annual ryegrass, barley, Austrian winter peas, crimson clover, cowpeas, or sunn hemp as well.

    Meanwhile, the book delves into finding cover-crop seeds, planting cover crops in a no-till garden, and easily killing cover crops without tilling or herbicide use. Understanding the C:N ratio of cover crops helps determine how long to wait between killing cover crops and planting vegetables, as well as how to maximize the amount of humus you’re adding to your soil.

    Cover crops are an advanced gardening technique bound to increase your vegetable yields, but are simple enough for beginners. Give your garden a treat — grow some buckwheat!Homegrown Humus Cover Crops in a No Till Garden



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  • The Humanure Handbook: A Guide to Composting Human Manure, Third Edition

    The Humanure Handbook: A Guide to Composting Human Manure, Third Edition

    This entry is in the series Best Fertilizer & Soils Books

    The 10th Anniversary Edition of the most comprehensive, up-to-date and thoroughly researched book on the topic of composting human manure available anywhere. It includes a review of the historical, cultural and environmental issues pertaining to “human waste,” as well as an in depth look at the potential health risks related to humanure recycling, with clear…;



    Joseph Jenkins, Inc.Price: $25.00 $14.50 Free Shipping



    The 10th Anniversary Edition of the most comprehensive, up-to-date and thoroughly researched book on the topic of composting human manure available anywhere. It includes a review of the historical, cultural and environmental issues pertaining to “human waste,” as well as an in depth look at the potential health risks related to humanure recycling, with clear instructions on how to eliminate those dangers in order to safely convert humanure into garden soil. Written by a humanure composter with over thirty years experience, this classic work now includes illustrated, step-by-step instructions on how to build a “$25 humanure toilet,” a chapter on alternative graywater systems, photos of owner-built humanure toilets from around the world, and an overview of commercial composting toilets and systems.Ships from Vermont



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  • Organic: Composting: Made Easy: How To Create Natural Fertilizer At Home (Fertilizer Plants, Do It Yourself, Guide, Urbane Gardening, Herb,Fertilizer Nitrogen) … For Plants, Fertilizer Plants Book 3)

    Organic: Composting: Made Easy: How To Create Natural Fertilizer At Home (Fertilizer Plants, Do It Yourself, Guide, Urbane Gardening, Herb,Fertilizer Nitrogen) … For Plants, Fertilizer Plants Book 3)


    Over 6000 Downloads To DateIn this day and age it’s difficult to know what is really in your food, even vegetables labelled as “organic” can contain artificial substances and are often grown in fertilizers that can harm both the earth and the plants themselves. Compost has been made from organic matter that has decomposed; it…;





    Over 6000 Downloads To Date

    In this day and age it’s difficult to know what is really in your food, even vegetables labelled as “organic” can contain artificial substances and are often grown in fertilizers that can harm both the earth and the plants themselves.

    Compost has been made from organic matter that has decomposed; it is the best, most environmentally friendly fertilizer for your plants.

    Whether you want to have an organic farm so that you know exactly where your fruits and vegetables come from or you want a thriving garden, composting is the way to go and this book will help you along the way.

    Here Is A Preview Of What You’ll Learn…

    • 6 Reasons Why You Should Make Your Own Compost
    • How Composting Improves You Soil
    • The 7 Steps To Selecting The Right Compost Bin
    • How To Make Your Own Compost
    • What You Should And Should Not Compost
    • Common Composting Problems & How They Can Be Reminded
    • Tools Which Will Make Composting Easier
    • Composting With Worms
    • How To Use Your Compost On Your Plants
    • How To Make Your Own Potting Mix
    • Much, much more!

    Readers say…….

    “The best way to know what is in your food is to grow your own when you can. And if you are planning to go organic, making your own compost is a must. This short but information-packed ebook from Dr. John Stone breaks down (no pun intended) the ins and outs of making your own compost. There are ten chapters therein, including reason why you should make your own compost, things to consider when buying a compost bin, common composting problems and how to make your own compost, among several other topics. Each section is thoroughly detailed and idiot-proof, written in plain, easy-to-follow language. If you are interested in organic food gardens or just improving your lawn while being kind to Mother Earth, I highly recommend downloading a copy of this handy little guide”…….horrorgirldonna

    “Happy to have a slim to the point book for the important points when taking on composting. I am a first timer and I really liked the details in bullet formate; both pros and cons listed in more areas.

    Definately recommend this book”…………………..Kim LeBlanc

    Get your copy today!

    Tags: Gardening Guide, Raised Bed Organic Gardening, Gardening For Beginners, Organic Garden Vegetable, Prepper’s, Survival, DIY, Indoor gardening, Urban homestead, Off The Grid Survival



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  • How Do You Use Urine? – The Permaculture Research Institute

    How Do You Use Urine? – The Permaculture Research Institute

    How Do You Use Urine?

    October 13, 2017by & filed under General

    Composting toilets are a great thing. They take what has become a problem in modern systems—human excrement—and make it into something useful: rich compost. Despite simple and effective ways of making composting toilets, humanure does still bring about some controversy with those who are worried about pathogens. Confident composters won’t hesitate to put a well-rotted humanure compost in vegetable gardens, whereas less trusting composters opt for applying it to fruit trees. The important thing about either type of composter, however, is that we start making the most of cycling the waste rather than contaminating our water sources.

    With all of that said, urine is a completely different excretion, one that really doesn’t need to set off the same alarm bells. Most basic composting toilets are anti-urine, concerned about the high moisture levels, though some argue this needn’t be the case, that the moisture is actually good for the thunderbox. Nevertheless, the idea remains that urine is something else we should be thinking about. Unlike solid waste, urine applied to gardens doesn’t come with the risk of pathogens; rather, it is just, some would say, pure gold. In fact, it can be used in many different ways for boosting production.

    Make Wee for the Garden?

    Urine is very high in nitrogen, so much so that it should be diluted a minimum ratio of 1:10 with water before being used on plants. The wee of one person is said to be rich enough to fertilize a tenth of an acre of vegetable garden for the year. Once diluted the micturition mixture, or tinkle tincture if you like, should be applied within twenty-four hours of the urine being expelled. Older urine can become a bacterial issue, and a smelly one at that. The mxiture can be sprinkled on the soil, around the plants, or used as a foliar spray. The boost in nitrogen should also liven up the mulch and soil life beneath.

    Formulating Fertilizers?

    To get a little more technical, urine is mostly water with trace minerals and vitamins dissolved into it. That accounts for over 90% of what we are peeing. Much of the remaining percentage is perhaps a bit more interesting, as it is an organic compound called urea. Urea is wicked high in nitrogen. Synthetic urea has come to occupy the largest space in chemical fertilizers. Of course, our healthy bodies produce a cleaner, organic version, and it’s of such high quality we have to dilute it in order not to burn our plants.

    Another option, one that might have a bit more lasting power than a foliar spray is mixing urine with ashes. Urine is high in nitrogen, as well as potassium and phosphorus (that’s NPK), while ashes fill in missing trace elements, such as calcium and magnesium. This combination actually has a lot of research proving its effectiveness, and it outperforms commercial fertilizers. Seeing as both of these components are readily available on homesteads, it’s only sensible to combine their powers and grow some tomatoes.

    Stoking Up the Compost?

    There are many ways to fire up a slow-burning compost. Aerating (turning the compost), adding volume (a cubic meter is about the minimum), and maintaining moisture levels (like a damp sponge) are all classic ways of doing this. In permaculture, we are fans of adding comfrey leaves or tossing in some road kill. We also know that our nitrogen elements are the fuel that drives the decomposition of carbon materials, and that’s where pee can start to help.

    Urine, too, is a great compost stimulator. Obviously, the stiff shot of nitrogen and a bit of moisture both help, and the uric acid (urea) is also very beneficial. Uric acid levels are said to be the highest in the morning, so that’s the best time to rain down on the compost pile. Another popular method for composting with urine is creating a ‘pee bale’, which is used for a while and then added to the compost. This is a pretty clever way of collecting the pee without having to walk out to the compost heap or deal with chamber pots.

    Torch the Weeds?

    When urine is diluted, it’s aces for helping the garden thrive; however, in its pure form, the stuff is just far too potent for little plants to deal with. This is why a spot that gets peed on repeatedly, as the ground beneath a fire hydrant, will often turn yellow and die. There’s just so much nitrogen and acid that the plants burn out. Knowing this, if there is a particularly problematic spot with weeds, it possible to use 100% urine to try to get rid of the issue. Of course, if done without regard to the weather forecast, a rain could dilute it, and the plan might backfire and encourage the weeds to grow.

    Defeat the Fungal Diseases?

    Urine, oddly enough, can be used to help clean things up. For plants that struggle with fungal disease or mildews, a bit of diluted pee (1 part urine to 2 parts water) can make an effective foliar spray. Similarly, legend has it—and this widely disputed—that urine can be and has been used to help with curing human fungal problems, like athlete’s foot.

    Fresh urine is known to be a great sterilizer and has been used medicinally for centuries. It has been applied topically to treat rashes, stings, burns, and sores. Fresh urine has been used to sterilize areas, especially on battlefields, because it is far safer than using water. Some doctors have even recommended that patients drink their own urine—moderately, of course—for health purposes. I’ll leave those recommendations to the professionals.

    Marking Territory?

    Some claim that early morning urine from a male is effective for keeping animals out of the garden. Early morning urine is the most pungent, and male urine has specific hormones that help with the repelling. Apparently, deer, rabbits, groundhogs, and skunks all detest the smell of masculine, half-asleep human urine.

    There are many options to try out. Urine can be collected in a spray bottle and diluted, and that solution can be applied directly to plants that are being eaten. Stronger urine can be poured around the perimeter of the garden. And, yet another option is to soak something, perhaps a cotton ball or a bit of the old “pee bale”, and put that around the garden. Whichever method one chooses, it’ll be necessary to reapply the urine after a rain or watering.

    Whatever we find ourselves doing with our pee, the main point of it all is that we really should use it in some way. Urine is not something to be flushed away like a problem. It’s a solution. Whereas composting toilets might be difficult for folks in densely urban areas, using pee rather than flushing it poses no health risk and is easy to do. It’s actually an amazing commodity for those willing to take advantage of it. Plus, it’s a great excuse to have another beer.

    Feature Photo: Urine (Courtesy of Ajay Tallam)

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    https://permaculturenews.org/2017/10/13/how-do-you-use-urine/

    On – 13 Oct, 2017 By Jonathon Engels

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